Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Vogue 1051: Adventures in pants fitting - Fisheye dart

First version: I used my pants block and graded out to about a sz20. I had a lot of excess fabric at the back that even after unpicking the inner seams and pinning them together while wearing them, they still bunched.
So I ended up pinning out the excess in the back and transferred it to the pattern using Debbie Cook's fisheye dart method.
I unpicked the pants and managed to recut the back pieces so didn't have to cut new pieces which was good (but unpicking all that stitching and serging, that was bad!).

So the pics - this was before with the original pants pattern;

and this is after doing a 1" Fisheye dart;

So I wouldn't say a humongous difference but it is smoother and I didn't want to take so much out that they weren't comfortable to sit in.

Facings are a sateen again. On a side note I've been having a lot of trouble with my pants stretching out lately, and I think its because of using a stretch material for the facing. So next pants will have a cotton facing and hopefully that will stop it.
Be aware too that the front welt pockets are teeny tiny! I can't even fit my phone in them

This was not the best material for pants, its quite thin and stiff plus its showing wear already and doesn't drape as nicely as it needs to for these pants. The legs are a lot more flared than they seemed in the pattern drawing and a drapier material would look better I think.


  1. I was just wondering what fabric you used. I've been on a hunt for a fabric as nice to wear as my RTW ones, but I don't really know what I'm looking for. These look very classy with the 3 buttons and the sateen facing! You are sewing up such a storm of nice pants that you're making me think I should just bite the bullet and get a good pants block. I keep hoping I'll change size but I guess everything can be redone!

    1. It s a stretch cotton drill from Lincraft, I've made a jacket out it before and it turned out great but I don't really like it in these pants.
      I put off getting a pants block too, thought I'd lose some weight and wasn't sure about the cost. But you can adjust them if you do lose weight and if you lose heaps she'll do a new pants block half price, so I figured it worth it, plus I still haven't lost any weight even after upping my exercise in prep for a Karate competition thats coming up!!

  2. Wow Suzy you ate a pants making machine at the moment!

  3. LOL funniest typo ever, I meant are not ate!

  4. Another fabulous pair. Have many hours do you spend sewing a week?

  5. Thanks Marie! I've never worked out how many hours, but since I only work 3 days a week I probably spend about 3 days sewing, spaced around spending time with the family, so maybe 15-20 hours a week? When I get fixated on something (like perfecting sewing pants!) I do spend more time doing it. I'm actually a pretty slow sewist, I watch tv and read while sewing as well.
    But all I know is, if I don't get out sewing a fair bit I get crankier and crankier!! Its my destress time :)