Thursday, September 25, 2014

Sewaholic 1401: Gabriola Skirt

I've had this pattern since it came out but seeing Julia Bobbins gorgeous skirt made me get it out and get started!
After making the vogue 1247 skirt I really like a straight waistband on me, it makes the skirt hang better and doesn't give the fitting nightmares that I've had on skirts before. All this is missing is some pockets, with all those seam lines on the yoke its crying out for a hidden pocket or time!

Size wise: I used the size 16 and graded up at the waist to about a sz 20. I think this has to be the most easiest skirt to fit I've ever made because I made no other adjustments.

The blue fabric is a rayon from Spotlight, I didn't have quite enough (2.5m of 112cm wide) so I made the skirt side panels less flared at the bottom and used a black cotton poplin for the yoke inserts and waistband. I do wish I'd used a more thicker fabric on the yoke and waistband, it does feel a bit flimsy and could do with a bit more heft. Its showing up pretty lurid on my monitor, but its just a nice bright blue in real life.

The waistband called for interfacing but I used elastic instead.

I love how fitted it is at the waist and hips and how swishy it is to wear, it really is a fantastic pattern and I can see a few more makes in my future!

Monday, September 22, 2014

Vogue 1247: Denim Skirt

I feel like I'm the last person to make this pattern up - I've admired the skirt on so many of my favourite bloggers and finally picked up the pattern when Spotlight did one of their very rare $5 pattern sales.

The pattern goes up to a sz 18 (38-32-42), so I had to grade up about 8" - I did a really simple grade by just adding 2" to each of  the side seams. This made the pockets a bit too close together at the front so I widened them to make it look balanced. Lengthened it by about 4"

I took a wedge out of the front length for my tilted waist. Not sure if I should have taken more out or changed the front darts a bit though because it bunches up when I wear it over leggings, can't see it if I wear my top untucked though.

This is my second version of this skirt - first version was a lovely ikat cotton, it was just too thin though and didn't sit right. The fabric here is a medium weight denim I picked up from a clearing sale. Its lovely and soft, and I used hug and snug binding to do the seams inside.

Its a lot shorter than I'd usually wear a skirt, but since I normally wear skirts over leggings I thought I'd challenge myself!

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Member in focus on pattern review

When I started sewing one of the first sites I found and joined was Pattern Review, so its a bit of a thrill to be the member in focus this week! Please head over and have a look (I must admit all I can focus on is my photos and how I need to play with the settings again on my camera!)

I am so behind on blogging my latest makes, I've had great sewing mojo lately and am flying through projects but just haven't taken any full photos yet, but here's a couple of sneak peeks;

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Swoon Patterns: Scarf neck cardigan

I've been searching for a waterfall cardigan pattern for ages, I have a couple of RTW ones that I wear a lot to work that need replacing. I saw this pattern on Thornberry's blog and it seemed to fit all my wants plus a couple more - its a free download (!!!) and it has princess seams.

I cut a sz L and did a 1" FBA. I changed the hem to suit my RTW cardi's, I don't find long cardi's very flattering on me so I like them to sit shorter at the back and sides.

The fabric is a thin rayon jersey from Rathdowne fabrics, its sort of a grey/purple/brown colour.

I left the front centre hem raw and twin needled the bottom hem. I made it all on my serger except for the hem, its a very quick make!
It could do with the shoulders being narrowed next time, but its a casual style and I don't think its that noticeable.

Friday, August 22, 2014

McCalls 6992: Fox jumper


Inspired by Rachels great jumper my daughter wanted a similar one made, so we came up with this one.

The fabrics are from Spotlight. I'm not overly happy with the quality of the fox fleece, its faded out after prewashing and has some spots where its missing colour, not big enough to worry about but for a so called premium fleece who's full price is $16.99pm its pretty crappy.

Size wise - Its a sz 14, with the arms lengthened by 1" and the body shortened by 2" plus a swayback adjustment of 1" (she's about 5'4"). 5/8" FBA which was eased into the side seams. Otherwise its straight from the pattern and its fits her really well.

I overlocked all the seams and then topstitched the bindings down.

I asked her if this was her Fonzie pose and got asked who's that...sigh, I'm feeling old!

Not much more to say, its a good basic pattern and I'd recommend it.

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Sewaholic 1202: Cambie Dress

I'm kind of late on the cambie bandwagon, but I finally downloaded it and made it up!

Fabric is from the clearance table at spotlight, its a cotton voile. Lining is a cotton poplin.

  • I started with a sz 16 and changed the front to a princess seam using the bodice from Colette 1020 (which already had a FBA of 1")
  • Added a side panel that was shirred (I did this by taking an inch off the side seams on the front and back bodice then made up a shirred panel that measured 2"+seam allowances when it was done), the skirt has enough gathers that I didn't worry about adding any width to it, I just gathered it a bit less.
  • Took a wedge out of the back neckline of about 1" tapering down to nothing at the waistline.
  • Added 1/2" to the shoulder height.
  • Petited the bodice by 1" and took an extra 1/2" out as a swayback adjustment.

I've got some rippling at the princess seams, every time I sew with voile I get this, I think its a combination of the thin fabric and being pulled tight by the shirring. Next time I sew with voile I'll try underlining it and see if that helps.

I'm happy with this, it needs a couple of small tweaks before I sew it again - There is still too much length in the back bodice and it needs more length at the front bodice. I want to add a little more ease to the bodice, probably an inch to the side shirred panel. It's the first time I've used a side shirring panel and it worked pretty good, it changes the construction steps a bit and makes it harder to fit as I sew but means its a dress I'll wear a lot more.

Monday, August 11, 2014

Simplicity 2446: Ponte jacket

One thing I've really missed wearing is a fitted stretch jacket. I used to have a couple of them and wore them to death and never replaced them when they got too small. I've tried on RTW ones since and they are all ridiculously too big on the shoulders. This jacket is my first attempt to fit a TNT stretch blazer.
I picked this pattern up at the latest Spotlight sale, cut a Sz18 with the c-cup front. These patterns come with a 1" seam allowance so you can fit as you go. Its a good idea but if you use the full 1" seam allowance you end up with ridiculously wide shoulders on them, so just keep that in mind if you make one.

I added a 1" FBA and 1" bicep width and then muslined this up. Pretty good fit width wise, I used the 1" seam allowances on the upper back and nipped it in at the waist. Added a bit to the hips on the back. I did take in the princess seam above and below the bust and also narrowed the shoulders by about 1".

I wanted to keep it casual so didn't add shoulder pads and didn't worry about the inseam pockets or the faux pocket flaps.
Fabric is a poly ponte I picked up at a Lifeline shop, its very spongy and very 1970's plastic feeling but feels like it could be blown up and would still be wrinkle free, lol. Lining is a stretch satin that I also used for  my Lekala 4329 jacket.

 The fit still isn't perfect, I still have too much excess across the upper chest and I think the button spacing looks funny, I actually lowered the placement by about an inch but I think they need to be lowered again. I might lengthen it by an inch or two as well, it looks a bit short. I need to wear it around a bit first though and then tweak it, I picked up some nice uncut corduroy this weekend that I want to make the next version out of.