tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-54800036118647499792024-03-18T16:41:53.665+10:30Suzy Bee SewsSuzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.comBlogger270125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-67749736460778685992016-11-08T08:46:00.001+10:302016-11-08T08:46:10.547+10:30Grainline Studios: 13001 Alder Shirtdress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've always stuck with fit and flare dresses, not sure why but I think it comes from the whole idea that its acceptable to be fat as long as you are an hourglass shape.........going to Japan this year was a real eye opener, not sure if its a cultural thing but the women I saw, as a general rule, wore loose flowing clothes regardless of size and I loved how it looked and how freeing it is. So even though this dress still has a waist its significantly more loose than I would normally wear and I am thoroughly in love with it!<br />
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I did get rid of the darts and change them to a princess seam. Not sure if its how I am shaped or how I sew darts but I can never get them to fit me anywhere near as nicely as a princess seam.<br />
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I managed to sew the collar on upside down..........Its not noticeably in this print but I did such a beautiful top stitching and trimmed the seams before I realised.....D'oh!<br />
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I was happily surprised at how easy the whole dress came together, don't be put off by the collar or button band - sewing in a firmer cotton was a breeze as well!<br />
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Fabric: Cotton poplin from Spotlight.<br />
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Adjustments;<br />
Size 16 graded to sz 18 from armholes down.<br />
Changed front darts to princess seams.<br />
1" FBA<br />
Added 0.5" to back width.<br />
Added inseam pockets <br />
Left off the breast pockets.<br />
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Adding princess seams to the front means the front is in 3 pieces instead of the original 2. It also meant easier construction because I stitched the side bodice to the front skirt first and then attached them to the front. I did the side seams last as well, I really like to do that, means you can do some last minute fitting.<br />
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I love the hi-low hem and I love the looser fit, just seems like a really cool summer dress. I've already cut out another one in light chambray/denim!Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-62438100040485684062016-10-24T12:30:00.002+10:302016-10-24T12:30:38.811+10:30StyleArc: Harper Jacket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Great pattern - went together really fast, I left the hems raw. I like the shorter back and then the waterfall front. Not much more to say!<br />
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Fabric: Ponte from Spotlight<br />
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Adjustments: <br />
Size 18<br />
Added 1" to arm width<br />
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I have a bit of excess at the armholes and upper chest - seems to happen when I don't do a FBA, so next time I'll pin it out and adjust the armhole shape.<br />
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<br />Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-2686976424574953212016-10-16T09:52:00.001+10:302016-10-16T09:52:04.952+10:30Neue Mode 25054 : Drape coat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've seen Neue Mode patterns before over on sewingpatterns.com and kinda wrote them off as being left over from the 80's. I did get an email recently though that had some new designs in it and fell in love with this coat, took me forever to find it on the website (it was listed as <a href="http://sewingpatterns.com/sub_item.php?item_num=25054neu&model=%&new_category=noCategory&view=gallery&brand=Neue_Mode&category=noCategory&pageGoto=0&pageFormat=3|186|186&pageCount=18&search=&return=yes">Non-categorized</a>, after I'd been through a few hundred patterns looking for it......)<br />
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Its a bit sketchy ordering a neue mode pattern - no line drawings on most of the patterns and none of them actually list what pattern you get - so it could potentially be the pants or the top or the coat... This one thankfully had a line drawing, though its not very accurate, it shows the collar being a separate pattern piece but its just one front piece, the hem dips lower at the front plus the pattern has sleeve cuffs which aren't on the drawing, and it also has no pockets...<br />
The cutting layout and amount of fabric is printed as part of the pattern and the pattern pieces also have basic fit adjustments printed on them which was kind of awesome.<br />
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Sizing - I made a sz 20/46, about 2 sizes smaller than I should have, but I was using a stretch fabric and I wanted more of a fitted cardigan/coat. I also didn't do my normal FBA because I figured I wouldn't need it with the drape front.<br />
I'm really happy with the shaping - it has a great defined waist and I love the drape of the front.<br />
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Adjustments;<br />
Size 20<br />
Graded to a sz22 from the waist down<br />
Narrowed shoulders by 1"<br />
Added 1.5" to arm width<br />
Added 1" to sleeve cap height<br />
Chopped 12" from the length<br />
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Fabric:<br />
A stretchy woven poly from the clearance table at Spotlight, it has a damask type pattern woven through.<br />
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The instructions are ok, very brief like a burda pattern. I decided to go for a deeper hem and topstitched it for the weight and stability it would give the hems.<br />
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All in all, I'm really happy with the coat and will have another crack at neue mode patterns in the future!Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-14233816302032918712016-09-15T14:32:00.000+09:302016-09-15T14:32:50.687+09:30Bits and Pieces<ul>
<li>My sewing mojo has totally disappear for the last few months - however I've promised to make my Mum a dress - she has a party to go to and wants a viking/medieval dress and I happened to have this one in the stash so I'm hoping it might kickstart me a bit</li>
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<li>More sewing for others - My daughters best friend wants a tinkerbell outfit so am thinking of this burda pattern if I add width to the skirt and the points to the skirt hem.</li>
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<ul>
<li>Had a great time in Japan, absolutely loved it over there. Went to the Nippori fabric district, got overwhelmed in Tomato and went into the tiny shop next door and bought some awesome fabric.</li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li>We both did the karate seminar in Tokyo and my Husband competed at the Goju kai comp the next day</li>
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<ul>
<li>Am swapping rooms with my daughter in a couple weeks - she is moving into my back shed sewing room and I'll be having her inside room. I'll be sad to leave my shed but will be nice sewing with the kittens again (we don't let them outside after my boy cat was hit by a car).</li>
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Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-33767301392011939952016-04-15T09:20:00.005+09:302016-04-15T09:20:53.811+09:30Finished bridesmaid dresses<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The wedding was about a month ago and I've finally recovered enough to talk about it!
This is going to be a photo heavy post - there were too many nice photos of the day just to pick a couple.<br />
<br />
This is the final post about bridesmaid dress sewing - <a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/bridesmaid-dress-sewing.html">part 1</a>, <a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2015/10/bridesmaid-sewing-v1-adventures-in.html">part 2</a>, <a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2015/10/bridesmaid-dress-v2-finished.html">part 3</a>.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC_R0wvPL1HeoSckv1eRm8NYrnMq2x4C5M04OlROBdP6bPRf_LPSeBxHS95gunKouHPnC4FCThl-Butt19tgw4Psml89wEvnnaIp85JdALaNInu6jWMvBiQ-_HzzROM43JY2cLQXJunkU/s1600/Wedding++%252874%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC_R0wvPL1HeoSckv1eRm8NYrnMq2x4C5M04OlROBdP6bPRf_LPSeBxHS95gunKouHPnC4FCThl-Butt19tgw4Psml89wEvnnaIp85JdALaNInu6jWMvBiQ-_HzzROM43JY2cLQXJunkU/s640/Wedding++%252874%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My boy has grown so much lately, I'm still taller than him in heels though!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfgAhgG6zlqbn6phsOyyi2kQEaYvBgyoM56hNzW6zKVdMxSs-wGsWbvPKQBx3QvNmqygPt7m9CWeUPQ8wyBv2o0WE1CoNIw8ZQxeuiojaLji0i2qT4bJHCBmNgMBS51QEyXaKhfpknb9w/s1600/Wedding++%252812%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfgAhgG6zlqbn6phsOyyi2kQEaYvBgyoM56hNzW6zKVdMxSs-wGsWbvPKQBx3QvNmqygPt7m9CWeUPQ8wyBv2o0WE1CoNIw8ZQxeuiojaLji0i2qT4bJHCBmNgMBS51QEyXaKhfpknb9w/s640/Wedding++%252812%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BTW, its apple juice! </td></tr>
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(Photo credits to: John Davies Photography)</div>
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Pattern Details;<br />
<br />
Simplicity 4070 for the bodice<br />
Simple gathered skirt<br />
<br />
C was 38 weeks pregnant at the wedding, I did the final fitting the weekend before with her and took a couple of tucks out of the lace to get the bodice sitting smooth. <br />
I had a great comment from Sarah on my first post;<br />
"1) empire waist dress 2) yes - you need the pregnancy / beer belly equivalent of FBA to cope with the 8 month bump. Add extra length in an arc from side seam to seam, and extra width to the front skirt. I'd leave hemming and finalising the dress to the week before the wedding."<br />
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Adding the extra length in an arc worked an absolute treat and I hemmed the dress on the weekend before as well, just to allow for any extra changes.<br />
The empire waistband sat nicely above her belly. I do think the inside bodice should have come up higher, thankfully its not too noticeable but just goes to show that even with a fully sewn muslin, the fabric affects the fit so much (I even used a lace overlay on the muslin but it must have been a stiffer lace).<br />
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I hand stitched in the lining, its a cotton from Clear-It in Melbourne. Not a perfect match for colour but the closest I could find. I am so glad I went with cotton, it was a pretty hot day (got to 30 degrees Celsius) and we would have melted in a polyester.<br />
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Fabric Details;<br />
The lace was a op-shop find in Tailem Bend.<br />
The main fabric is a double gorgette from Spotlight <br />
Lining is cotton from Clear-It<br />
Buttons are plastic ones from Lincraft.<br />
Zipper and bias binding was from Spotlight.<br />
My dress had plastic boning along all seams, but I left it out of C's dress.<br />
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I made sure to tell my family if I ever offer to sew anything wedding related again to slap me! I found it pretty stressful, normally if I sew something that I don't like or doesn't fit, it gets chucked in my corner of shame, but sewing these dresses I couldn't make any mistakes, not the least because I had such a limited amount of lace that couldn't be replaced.<br />
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I am pretty proud of what I achieved, they are not perfect and I would have loved to use a more luxurious fabric and made a few more muslins but I managed to make them both in time for roughly $100 in materials (not counting time or muslin fabrics) so you have to count that as a win!Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-47585231538347278802016-03-14T10:26:00.000+10:302016-03-14T10:26:41.971+10:30Closet Case Files: Zippered Ginger Jeans<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I got the email through about Papercut's new patterns the other day and I loved the new pair of jeans they have released. I was thinking all day about downloading them and how I could adjust them using my Ginger jeans pattern so they would fit and end up being a pair of Ginger jeans with front zippers.......then I mentally slapped myself and hacked up my Ginger pattern instead! <br />
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I think of these as a homage to that Papercut pattern and also a pair of Just Jeans that I saw in the shops recently. According to the daughter, jeans with zipper pockets are 'in' right now (oh god I feel old!)<br />
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Adjustments;<br />
Sz 18<br />
Added 1" to inner leg seam on front pattern<br />
Added a pocket stay<br />
Hyperextended calf adjustment<br />
Changed the shape of the front and back pockets<br />
Slimmed the calf from the knee down.<br />
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My zippers work, but they don't actually go to a pocket, I did think about making them fully functional but realised I wouldn't use them so didn't bother.<br />
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The pockets are inspired by a pocket design I saw on google and saved, I think they were true religion jeans.<br />
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Denim is from Lincraft, its a lighter weight denim with a lot of stretch which I like using for this pattern. Its a strange colour - almost a blue/grey.<br />
Top stitching is with Guttermann upholstery thread no.38<br />
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Damn, I love this pattern! I've used it so many times I had to trace off a new one this time!
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Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-79477558233545286662016-03-09T09:24:00.001+10:302016-03-09T09:24:09.112+10:30Victory Pattern 1002: Hacked Ava dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This poor pattern doesn't really resemble the original Ava dress anymore! I needed a dress with a zipper for the morning of my friends wedding and wanted a comfy knit one so that's how this dress idea was born. I wanted it different enough from my last version too which is why I changed the back and added sleeves.<br />
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Fabric: Blue spandex knit from Spotlight and a mixture of bias binding on the waistband and some black knit for the neckline and sleeve binding. The lace is a remnant from Clear It.<br />
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Adjustments;<br />
Same as last time;<br />
Size 14 <br />
Added 1" FBA <br />
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Added the waistband.<br />
Dropped the neckline by 1"<br />
Sewed the side seams last and took it in by 1/2" each side.<br />
Made the length somewhere in between the short and long length.<br />
Added pockets from the Burda dress I last made.<br />
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Plus - morphed the back pattern pieces into one then added the lace cut-out.<br />
Added sleeves <br />
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The sleeves were a bit of a fiddle - I forgot to add extra seam allowances onto the armscye so there is some slight pulling at the front.
I do like the shape of them though - they are based a bit on the Colette macaron sleeves except I just hacked at the sleeve until I liked the shape!
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There is some slight hitching at the front - having the knit as the bodice top instead of lace made it sit slightly higher and really needs 1/2" or so added to the bodice length.<br />
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I like how the bias binding highlights the interesting seamlines on this pattern and I really love the lace - I still have a reasonable amount left so expect to see it again!<br />
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Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-60819897086908747772016-02-12T08:00:00.000+10:302016-02-12T08:00:03.606+10:30Jalie 3462 : Cora leggings<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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These leggings have no fit adjustments.....Seriously - no adjustments!! They would have to be the best fitting leggings I've ever made and I didn't have to mess around with them at all. I'm in love <3<br />
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So, the pattern - it has great seam lines and is perfect for colour blocking. It has a built in pocket that's easily enough to hold an iPhone 6. The waistband is nice and wide and is reinforced with elastic. They have a gusset and the inner seamlines wrap more towards the front so you don't get chaffing from the seams.<br />
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I did shorten them, I wear 3/4 leggings in winter and summer so didn't see the point in making them full length. I will be making the shorts later for wearing underneath dresses to banish the dreaded chub-rub.<br />
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Pattern details;<br />
Size CC<br />
Shortened by 7-8"<br />
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Fabric details;<br />
Front fabric is from Rathdowne - its a Seafolly stretch lycra that was meant to be for swimwear. Its thin but opaque enough you don't get show through.<br />
The back fabric is a black matt lycra from GJ Discount fabrics.<br />
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The stretch really does matter in these pants - they have a lot of negative ease and rely on having a 4-way stretch for size and comfort.<br />
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I used the lightening bolt stitch on my crotch seams (I'm always terrified of it splitting open at the gym!) and then overlocked all the other seams. I'm trying to get over my coverstitch issues and so used it as decorative stitching on the back seams and for hemming.<br />
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Not much more to say - there will be many more pairs sewn by me and I am on the lookout for the brightest, craziest lycra I can find!</div>
Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-14548932632419992102016-02-08T07:21:00.000+10:302016-02-08T07:21:38.883+10:30Victory Patterns 1002: Ava Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I seem to be going back through my old patterns lately and sewing them up! I made this as the blouse <a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2012/01/victory-patterns-1002-ava-blouse.html">a couple of years ago</a>. I always wore it with a wide belt though as it had a tendency to poof out on my stomach so I got rid of it in the big wardrobe cull of 2015.<br />
This time I wanted to correct the things that bothered me with the first version - added a waistband to eliminate the poofyness, used smaller bias binding to make the binding sit smoother, got rid of the darts and added princess seams. Otherwise its a fairly similar colour palette - purple ponte and a basic black lace!<br />
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Pattern details;<br />
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Size 14 <br />
Added 1" FBA <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGX_ckb0NVQ78jXq8P9eOYavOS-mkYhDmYTEKJBBV6pQToGoYgxVqKTPRwJrbtPpmZNej_nAi-kgQRDam3HDoFI9uiVA9qXkj9QlRDpuZmLvzuCHxebZWmzGlqho2qFpxL89SDSzV94co/s1600/Ava-technicals-v2_3391ac9027101ef2e994c61f97ef332542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGX_ckb0NVQ78jXq8P9eOYavOS-mkYhDmYTEKJBBV6pQToGoYgxVqKTPRwJrbtPpmZNej_nAi-kgQRDam3HDoFI9uiVA9qXkj9QlRDpuZmLvzuCHxebZWmzGlqho2qFpxL89SDSzV94co/s1600/Ava-technicals-v2_3391ac9027101ef2e994c61f97ef332542.jpg" /></a>Changed darts into princess seams<br />
Added the waistband.<br />
Dropped the neckline by 1"<br />
Left out the zipper (hooray for ponte!)<br />
Sewed the side seams last and took it in by 1/2" each side.<br />
Took 1.5cm out of the bodice length (once the skirt was added the weight dropped it all too low)<br />
Made the length somewhere in between the short and long length.<br />
Added pockets from the Burda dress I last made<br />
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Fabric;<br />
Ponte from Clear-It<br />
Lace from the salvos (its just a cheap Spotlight one though)<br />
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Insides are all serged and I reinforced the shoulder seams with some selvage since the dress is quite heavy<br />
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I like how unpretentious this dress is in regards to sewing the lace, no fanciness, just sew it up like any other fabric. For someone who's still a little scared of lace I like how basic it is. No couture techniques here, just serge it all up and no worries!<br />
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I'm really happy with it, its a pretty dress that I can still wear with a shrug to work. And I am so much happier with the fit now compared to my first attempt!
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Daughter approved!<br />
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Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-40460126446779432972016-02-03T09:37:00.001+10:302016-02-03T09:37:05.743+10:30BurdaStyle FS/2014 : Smocked back dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've been eyeing off a dress at City Chic for ages and planned on copying it, right down to the colour. But after I started to muslin this pattern I decided I liked the muslin fabric enough to finish it!<br />
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Pattern details;<br />
<a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/burdaeasy-smocked-back-dress-fs2014">Burdastyle dress</a> download<br />
Size 44<br />
1" FBA<br />
Omitted the front button band<br />
Gathered the skirt instead of pleats<br />
Cut the same pattern piece for front and back skirt (the back skirt is very straight and I wanted more flare)<br />
Left out the facings and used bias binding<br />
Added a waistband.<br />
Added the top bias band. I did trial it on the top edge sitting up and also folded down but liked it a lot more folded down.<br />
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Fabric details:<br />
Sateen from Spotlight - I bought this years ago and then fell out of love with it and its sat in my muslin bin for ages.<br />
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Because the sateen is so thick I stitched channels for 6mm elastic instead of using shirring thread. It makes a heavier more stable elastic panel but its quite comfortable to wear. You do have to watch that its not too tight though as the last dress I did this on it tended to collapse and crease when wearing, but I overfitted it and this time it seems to be sitting fine.<br />
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I really like the pockets, having them built into the front skirt makes it really easy to sew the side seams up last.<br />
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I'm still not completely convinced by the straps, I had planned on doing adjustable ones but thought I'd try out the double straps, they may get replaced later though!<br />
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Insides are all serged and bias binding at the top edge.<br />
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Now to make the next version in navy with buttons!Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-78243007824014770752016-01-30T08:00:00.000+10:302016-01-30T08:00:34.385+10:30True Bias 4101: Hudson Pants<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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These have to be the ultimate weekend pants, they are just so relaxed and comfy. I've been wanting a pair of casual trackies for a while and it came between these ones and the StyleArc Shelby pair. But it was <a href="http://cookinandcraftin.blogspot.com.au/2014/06/hudson-pant-pattern-testing.html">this review of the 3/4 ones</a> by <a href="http://cookinandcraftin.blogspot.com.au/">Cookin' & Craftin'</a> that made me download the pattern straight away!<br />
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We are off to Japan this year (!!!!!!) so I've been quizzing my daughter about what everyone wears and flicking through the La Farfa magazine she brought me back after her student exchange last year. The biggest thing that's stood out to me is that you don't see many women wearing tight leggings, Amber took some over for sports and said she was the only one wearing them. So I'm on the hunt for comfy pants that I can walk in around Japan, wear to the Karate seminar we are attending and still look neat but that are a looser fit than I might wear normally.<br />
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These fit the bill perfectly and I plan on making many more :)<br />
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Pattern details;<br />
I graded up to a sz 20 (my fabric has bugger all stretch in it)<br />
Scooped out the front crotch curve<br />
Added 2" of rise to the centre back, grading down to nothing at the side seams. I did this by 3 horizontal cut and spreads like what is <a href="http://cationdesigns.blogspot.com.au/2013/09/pants-pattern-alterations.html">shown in this great post (number 9 of alterations)</a>. <br />
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Fabric: <br />
The main fabric is a terry that I got at a garage sale. The black highlights are a Ponte from Spotlight.<br />
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I love the pocket details, I added some topstitching to keep the bulky seam under control.<br />
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Anyway, great pattern with a couple of adjustments and really quick and easy to sew.Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-64728219851508477092016-01-27T13:19:00.004+10:302016-01-27T13:19:38.194+10:30Simplicity 1783: pants<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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They may be boring, basic and black but I live in cropped pants at work over spring/summer. So while I had this pattern out for the denim skirt I thought I'd make up the pants too.<br />
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Not much to say, I've made these a couple of times before (<a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2012/09/simplicty-1783-pants.html">1</a> and <a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2014/02/simplicity-1783-pants.html">2</a>).<br />
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Pattern details;<br />
Size 18<br />
Pull-on waistband<br />
Added pockets to the front and back.<br />
Took the legs in for a more fitted look.<br />
Added cuffs with a side split as I ran out of fabric and the legs were too short. <a href="http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com.au/2012/07/add-side-seam-splits-to-your-trousers.html">Used this tutorial for the side splits</a><br />
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Fabric Details;<br />
Bengalene from Spotlight<br />
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Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-75703873704399189582016-01-24T08:00:00.000+10:302016-01-24T08:00:10.256+10:30Simplicity 1783: Denim Skirt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My <a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2012/08/simplicity-1783-denim-skirt.html">last version of this skirt</a> stretched out over time and I donated it in the last big wardrobe cleanout. For a skirt I didn't wear that often I've really missed having it.
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This pattern needs bugger all fabric, I squeezed this out of just over 1m of denim leftover from a pair of jeans. This denim is thicker than my first version and sits a bit stiffer but it wears well and I know it will soften up with a few more washes.<br />
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I made the skirt a pull-on, not just because I'm obsessed with pull on bottoms at the moment, but the first waistband stretched out at least a couple of sizes and at least with an elastic waistband I don't have to worry about that happening again!<br />
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Pattern details;<br />
Size 18<br />
Tilted waist adjustment - removed 2" from front rise<br />
Changed the vent from the front to the back<br />
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I really love the vent on this pattern, very easy to sew and sits really nicely while wearing.<br />
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<br />Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-68409161002481763202016-01-21T11:45:00.003+10:302016-01-21T11:45:52.162+10:30Colette Macaron 1001: Macaron dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This poor pattern has been totally hacked and changed from the original this time. I sit a lot in my job and I found the original skirt was quite poofy when I was sitting but I also hated the <a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/sew-weekly-reunion-colette-1001-macaron.html">full circle skirt version I made</a> (I never even wore it after the photos, gave it to the salvos instead). This is maybe a 1/4 circle skirt and it seems to work really well.<br />
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I had trouble fitting this dress, it seems the combination of a changing shape and using a knit that has 4 way stretch made it too long. I'd basted it together for a try on and I'm glad I did because I ended up unpicking it more times than I'd like to admit to get it to fit better!<br />
I changed construction order too - so the side seams were the last to be sewn up. This is my new favourite technique, makes it so easy to adjust at a later date.<br />
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Pattern details;<br />
Size 12 knit yoke (<a href="http://thesnugbugcollective.com/2011/07/a-mixed-macaron-fitting-part-1/">got the idea from Patty the Snug Bug</a>)<br />
Size 18 bodice with the darts converted into princess seams<br />
Skirt is from Newlook 6390<br />
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Fabric details; Sateen is from Spotlight and the knit is from GJ Discount fabrics. I'm slowly sewing through my stash!Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-88637949328150732512016-01-05T13:38:00.002+10:302016-01-05T13:38:15.094+10:30Rainbow quilt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My Mum lives on a few acres outside of a small country town and a few years ago she painted her front fence in rainbow colours. People either love it or hate it, but it certainly suits my Mum and her extroverted personality!<br />
I've been wanting to make her a quilt for ages and it had to be a rainbow one. I started to make her the <a href="http://www.bryanhousequilts.com/2015/02/wavelength-modern-rainbow.html">Wavelength quilt</a> out of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Rainbow-Imaginative-Quilts-Color/dp/1617450189">Modern Quilting</a> but after I started it, I just didn't like it so did some panic googling to find another idea to use the fabric for.<br />
I found this <a href="http://buttontreelane.blogspot.com.au/2014/08/rainbows-and-unicorns.html">awesome quilt by buttontree lane</a>. I had enough different shades of fabric and already had the dark charcoal for the background.<br />
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I wanted it to end up nice and big so used fairly big hst (6.5"). The quilt is 96" x 96" (240cmx240cm) finished. I didn't get any photos but the backing is the left over grey and the binding is a black and white stripe.<br />
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I had help basting it from our new kitten!<br />
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Its kind of huge, I free motion quilting the grey sections but left the colours unquilted.
I found it tends to dull out the colours a bit when they are quilted and I wanted it as bright as possible, plus the effect it has looks cool, lol.<br />
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All in all, I'm really happy how it truned out and Mum loves it!Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-24223565979641218302016-01-01T19:59:00.001+10:302016-01-01T19:59:29.451+10:302015 Year in reviewI've left it too late this year to do the top 5 makes or top 5 fails so thought I'd do a bit of a mixed review post.<br />
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This year has been full of ups and downs in both sewing and life. <br />
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I lost my beautiful little boy cat in January.<br />
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I made this in February and still wear it all the time to work. <a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2015/02/mccalls-6754-knit-dress.html">McCalls 6754</a><br />
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Around March/April I got diagnosed with depression and social anxiety, its under control now but I had a few months where I didn't even touch my sewing machine.<br />
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I finally started to feel like me again and started sewing regularly in the last part of the year. In September I made the <a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/grainline-studio-16001-cascade-coat.html">Cascade duffle</a> for the second time.<br />
I'm pretty proud of this jacket, its one where I feel I nailed it on matching a fabric to a pattern perfectly. <br />
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October saw our daughter turn 16 and get her Learners<br />
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October also saw my worse quilting disaster. I got a homespun from Lincraft, made 2 cot quilts and when I washed them the dye ran so bad I don't think it was ever set. I used a total of 10 colour catchers which it saturated and tried 2 dylon colour run savers which didn't do anything.....I complained and made sure they removed that bolt from the store but at the end of the day I doubt I will ever buy fabric from Lincraft again.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a scrap of the same fabric sitting on top of the washed quilt, shows how much colour had washed out</td></tr>
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In November the daughter went on a school camp to the <a href="http://www.visitgrampians.com.au/">Grampians</a>. Now this is a kid who has competed in Karate for 4 years and had just returned from a student exchange overseas without a scratch. Well she managed to fall over and broke her cheekbone. Luckily it didn't need surgery and healed up really quickly.<br />
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I've been pretty busy with karate, attended 3 seminars and 2 gradings this year. Started coaching a lot more too. I had a seminar in December in Melbourne where I got to meet Jesse Enkamp (it was so hot I am barely functioning in this photo! It reached about 45 degrees celcius in the dojo...)<br />
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I also finally listened to my doctor and lost some weight this year (I have osteoarthritis in my knees and for the first time in a couple of years am not in pain). I had to do a big clean out of the wardrobe and will be madly sewing in the new year to replace a lot of basics.<br />
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We got a new rescue kitten just before Christmas, she's called Neko (Japanese for cat). She's currently sleeping on my chest as I type this!<br />
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So onwards to 2016! I have an overflowing stash I want to sew through. We have booked tickets to Tokyo in August so all available money will be going towards that instead of new fabric anyway. I'm finally starting to get a better feel for what I need and wear, it's not exciting or glamorous clothing but it gets used a lot.<br />
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Happy New Year to everyone! <br />
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Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-49335235610040541192015-12-08T09:26:00.002+10:302015-12-08T09:26:36.087+10:30Closet Case Files: Distressed Ginger Jean shorts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipXLiIS6zyVDTmxN-k6NfdZ1bHKXjyWzNT0RZMWcanxdR8-vPHXevJC-Doydgp9sfD-pZfK5sR1PlridwtVB1Wq8i8FCF0PZzs9wEfXfIrkeIUPl-iFn3KJfXZljqG3VCRzefUmR6BesI/s1600/CCF+Ginger+shorts+%252824%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipXLiIS6zyVDTmxN-k6NfdZ1bHKXjyWzNT0RZMWcanxdR8-vPHXevJC-Doydgp9sfD-pZfK5sR1PlridwtVB1Wq8i8FCF0PZzs9wEfXfIrkeIUPl-iFn3KJfXZljqG3VCRzefUmR6BesI/s640/CCF+Ginger+shorts+%252824%2529.JPG" width="424" /></a></div>
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I love sewing my own jeans and I love how much better they fit than rtw, but geez I wish there were more denim options than plain dark denim. So what do you do when you want a pair of light denim or distressed jeans? You play with bleach/sandpaper/scissors!<br />
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I made a couple of samples;<br />
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Bleach;<br />
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Sandblasting (which made no real difference, I used my husbands sandblaster but he has a very fine sand in it so I imagine a coarser sand would work better?);<br />
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Sandpaper and bleach;<br />
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The pattern is my TNT Ginger Jeans, shortened into above knee shorts. Same adjustments as usual (sz 18, added to inner leg 1", wedge taken from outer leg and extended calf adjustment plus I added a pull on waistband like my last pair)<br />
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To get the distressing I did some sandpapering before topstitching, then put the shorts on and marked with chalk the common wear areas. I made a half and half solution of bleach and water in a spray bottle, which I sprayed onto a rag and scrubbed into the fabric (gives a lot more control than just spraying straight onto the fabric). I did it about 5 times, giving it 10-15mins between each application, only dampening the fabric with the bleach solution not saturating it. When I was happy with it I washed them with some vinegar (meant to help stabilise the bleach?) and dried them.<br />
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My daughter tells me I did the distressing too low and I agree with her - the fade should have started further up. <br />
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I did the cuts with a pair of scissors and tweezers. I wasn't too sure about it to begin with but I'm liking it the more I wear them.<br />
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It was a fun project, I wouldn't use the sandpaper again, I don't like the damage it does to the fabric and I doubt I'd do the cuts again either. But I really like how the bleaching went and I'd definitely use that again.Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-36156873517370287582015-12-03T10:19:00.000+10:302015-12-03T10:19:24.779+10:30SBCC: 301 Moto Chic Jacket<br />
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I loved <a href="http://closetcasefiles.com/made-moto-chic-jacket-from-sbcc-patterns/">Heather Lou's version</a> of this jacket and when I realised I have a similar fabric decided to make a version (imitation is the best form of flattery, right...right?)<br />
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Fabric is a mystery herringbone from Lincraft. It pressed as if it had some wool content but I imagine it's mostly polyester.<br />
Lining is a sunsilky from the stash. I made the binding for the hem out of it too.<br />
Because my fabric has a fairly soft hand, I interfaced the entire jacket outer with a medium weft interfacing. I also added a back neck facing.<br />
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Adjustments;<br />
I made an XL, graded in at the waist to a L. <br />
1" FBA <br />
1" wide back adjustment<br />
1.5" to the arm width<br />
added 2" to the arm length.<br />
Doubled the back peplum width - when I made it up it just looked too flat and I wanted more gathers!<br />
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Its meant to be a cropped jacket, I'm fairly short through the waist so made the length as is and it hits my waistline perfectly. I would prefer to add a couple of inches to the peplum though if I made it again.<br />
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The instructions are, well, horrible....they are written as if you were making it out of leather which is fine but if you try to insert the zipper that way its inside out for a fabric jacket....There is a <a href="http://www.sbccpatterns.com/blogs/news/tagged/moto-chic">sewalong</a> up now which helps a bit but is also mostly written for leather. I did make a muslin and its fairly obvious how to construct once you've made it. I'll put up with no instructions though if its an interesting pattern and I really do love the shape.<br />
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I added some press-studs so I could wear it open - I don't tend to wear any jackets or tops that go up to my neck. I also added the studs to the inner facing as I found mine sagged down. My fabric is fairly thin though, even with it interfaced.<br />
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It's an interesting pattern, I like the fit and how the peplum is unlined. Its a pretty version of a moto jacket and would look really nice with a dress too. Even though I look grumpy as hell in these photos I am really happy with it!<br />
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Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-25845483861965468232015-11-30T09:44:00.001+10:302015-11-30T09:44:52.285+10:30Cake 0144: Tiramisu Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm on a stash busting mission at the moment so sewing through what I have - I got this jersey from Rathdowne Fabrics a year or two ago. Its got great recovery and is a nice medium weight.<br />
I've made this dress a couple of times now but mostly with crappier knits so this dress should *fingers crossed* last a lot longer.<br />
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Because this is only a medium weight, I wanted the waistband to have more heft to it so I cut 2 and interfaced them both with a weft interfacing. This gives it a lot more stability and helps it sit smoother when wearing the dress.
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I did my same adjustments as last time - the back is a 45, front is a 40D and the waistband/skirt is a 42.5". I extended the sleeves by 1.5" and widen them slightly by about .5".<br />
Except I added to the bust length, this pattern is meant to be sewn without having to add a FBA but I found with me the length through the bodice I just way too short.<br />
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I got myself a coverstitch machine this year, talk about a learning experience with it though! I've been using serger thread and had it skipping stitches a lot, I've swapped over to proper poly machine thread now and it seems to be stitching a lot better. I used the coverstitch on my hems and bindings.<br />
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I've had a huge sew-jo drop in the last couple of months, this dress is not my best sewing (the waistband doesn't line up perfectly on the side and I should have cut the pockets out with a better stripe placement) but it was nice to just sew without stressing out about the little things!Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-31807059542524681062015-10-14T14:00:00.002+10:302015-10-14T14:00:50.172+10:30Bridesmaid dress: V.2 finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is version 2- I managed to overfit <a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2015/10/bridesmaid-sewing-v1-adventures-in.html">Version 1</a> plus I ended up hating it so much I never finished lining it or hemming it! <br />
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Some quick dress details;<br />
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Bodice from Simplicity 4070<br />
Sleeves from Vogue 8943<br />
Skirt is just the width of fabric gathered.<br />
Rigelene boning in the back and front seams.<br />
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Adjustments;<br />
<br />
Size 18 <br />
1" FBA<br />
1" Back width<br />
1" bicep adjustment<br />
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Fabric;<br />
Lace from Clear It in Melbourne<br />
Chiffon and Lining from Lincraft<br />
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The dress was constructed from directions in Bridal Couture - there is a muslin underlining which is overlayed with the lining then the chiffon - my lace has a purple undertone that I couldn't match with plain chiffon but with the purple lining layered underneath it matches pretty well. <br />
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I catch-stitched down all the seams and fell stitched in the lining. First time I've used prick stitching instead of understitching and I'm really happy with it.<br />
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I added bra strap holders.<br />
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All in all I'm pretty happy with the fit. I do need to do some more tweaking - the back lace section is a bit loose, I should have interfaced or stay stitched it before I started sewing. I have some crumpling in the back waistband also, so it needs to be moved slightly higher and have a sturdier interfacing in it. The fit around the armholes needs to be refined too, I have a bit of excess at the front. But its definitely wearable and I like the shape on meSuzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-75421736983728700132015-10-01T09:25:00.003+09:302015-10-01T09:25:27.912+09:30Bridesmaid sewing: V.1 - adventures in couture sewingI feel like a fraud writing couture sewing - do real couture seamstress consider using the serger instead of binding seams? Or think that silk organza is a scratchy itchy seam binding? Or use plastic boning stitched into seams?!<br />
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Anyway, I started fitting and sewing the first practise run of the bridesmaid dresses. I'm using Simplicity 4070, its the only pattern I have with a lace overlay which means I don't need to draft anything.<br />
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I'm pretty much following the instructions out of the Bridal Couture book so cut everything with big wide seam allowances and marked the stitching lines with wax tracing paper.<br />
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I underlined the georgette with muslin which gave it a bit of body and let me catch stitch down the seam allowances. I wanted to add in boning and had a big roll of rigeline in my shelf - I used two strips on either side of each seam except for the very front seams where I only used one. Its smoothed out the bodice nicely. I left it too late to add channels so just stitched it into the seam allowances before they were catch stitched down.<br />
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It did originally make the bust seam sit out a bit too far but I found this <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/90381">awesome post on pattern review</a> and went back and unpicked the boning and eased it in and now its sitting perfectly.<br />
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I planned on using silk organza to underline the lace but since this lace is fairly stable I didn't need to. This is my second version of the lace - the first I tried using silk organza to bind the seams but didn't like the look or feel so French seamed the lace and then made my own bias binding to finish the neck and armhole seams<br />
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Notes to self;<br />
I eased in stay tape to the front top of the bodice but next time I need to be a bit more aggressive with the easing <br />
Either add more boning or interface the underlining - Its not quite stiff enough.<br />
Starch the hell out of the georgette!<br />
Remove all the thread basting - yes it gets hidden but it just looks messy<br />
Iron the rigeline flat first - its bowing the side seams out.<br />
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I've just pinned the skirt on here - I want to change the pleats to gathers (I figure it will be more flattering to C's pregnant belly).<br />
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I'm hoping to get the skirt finished and insert the zipper this weekend.Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-80714845273414169862015-09-25T09:37:00.000+09:302015-09-25T09:37:36.625+09:30Bridesmaid dress sewingMy best friend is getting married in March next year, myself and her sister are the bridesmaids. We'd planned on getting a custom made dress from a website overseas but the good/bad news is her sister has just found out she's pregnant (that's good), which means with a changing shape the chance of the dress fitting properly is not likely as she'll be just over 8mths at the wedding (that's bad, lol).<br />
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So, I offered to make the dresses, which I'm actually excited about but have a big learning curve since I've very rarely sewn with lace or chiffon and have never fitted a pregnant belly before.<br />
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The current dress plan is a princess line bodice with a lace overlay and sleeves. The skirt will be a chiffon pleated one. I figure I'll make a couple of mock-ups, not only to check the fit but to play with the technique. I've got 2 of Claire Shaeffer's books (Couture sewing and Bridal Couture), so I'll be reading up on sewing with lace. Pattern wise, I have her Vogue 8943 which is different to how I want the dresses made but will give me a good idea on finish and overlay<br />
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Here's the inspiration photos, the skirt is like the top photo and then add sleeves like the second photo with the lace overlay only being on the bodice. It will have more of a scooped neckline at the front.<br />
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She would like buttons down the back like in this pic, I'm wondering if I make it like a placket that would hide the zipper, still have to play around with that idea though. It may be easier to add a side zipper and have the back non-functioning but geez I hate side zippers! I like the idea that the zipper would be completely hidden and potentially the skirt overlay and back buttons would be not attached to the dress underlay for a couple of inches on either side and then do up and cover the zipper....not sure if its possible of how hard it would be to finish it neatly.<br />
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I figure for C (the pregnant bridesmaid), I'll fit her a few weeks beforehand and make her dress with extra wide seam allowances and hem and then fit her properly the weekend before. I'm figuring that fitting a belly would be similar to an FBA? More length and width to fit over the bump?<br />
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If anyone has suggestions for books, patterns or blogs to check please let me know!Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-2046013254856016632015-09-23T11:08:00.001+09:302015-09-23T11:08:33.028+09:30McCalls 7199: Drape jacket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I am a sucker for a drapy knit cardi and McCalls really do seem to do the best ones. The sizing is pretty predictable though, I always have to size down a few sizes (I think I'm a 20 or a 22 on the size chart and I made a sz16 here), the arms are always too short and way too tight. There's something a little funky going on at the back of the armhole, I want to wash it a few times though and see if its the fabric being a bit stiff or if I need to trim some off next time.<br />
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Adjustments;<br />
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<ul>
<li>Size 16</li>
<li>2" FBA</li>
<li>3" bicep width</li>
<li>1" to arm length</li>
<li>1" to armscye height</li>
<li>1" back width</li>
<li>1" to hips</li>
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I like the seam lines on the back especially and I really want to make a contrasting version eventually. <br />
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I read in the only review on patternreview that the weight of the facings dragged the top forward when wearing so I decided to leave the facings out and left the front edge unhemmed. This meant I stitched the back neck seam the other way from the instructions so the seam would be hidden<br />
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The fabric is a purple/grey ponte knit from Spotlight<br />
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I wore this to work this week and its one of those tops that looks so much nicer when you are moving around instead of standing still, it has great drape and I love the seam lines. I thought about making it look more fitted by taking it in at the back by adding a centre backs seam but I have been way over-fitting my clothes lately and need to just take a chill-pill and relax so I left it long and swingy.Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-52270188756475150672015-09-16T14:21:00.001+09:302015-09-16T14:21:33.624+09:30Closet Case Files: Blue gingers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Another pair of pull-on ginger jeans - <br />
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<a href="http://suzybeesews.blogspot.com.au/2015/05/ginger-jeans-pull-on-version.html">Same adjustments as last time</a>, main difference is I found they were hitching up at the back knees a bit which was because I had shaped the outer leg on the back pattern piece and it must have added extra length so the back pattern piece was about 1" longer than the front causing the buckling. Since fixing that they are hanging a lot straighter now.<br />
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The fabric is a lovely stretchy reversible denim from <a href="https://rathdownefabrics.com.au/">Rathdowne fabrics</a>, with blue on the top and black underneath. Thread is Guttermann #392 upholstery thread and the rivets are ones from etsy<br />
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I saved a blog post from a while ago by <a href="http://www.meggipeg.com/2015/03/biker-style-jeans-la-balmain.html">meggipeg</a> - I really liked her jeans and the quilting on them so in tribute to them (which sounds so much nicer than saying I completely copied her!!) I quilted a section on my back pockets, using some scraps I had of fleece to beef them up with. I thought about using batting but figured the fleece wouldn't shed or unravel<br />
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I read another post the other day from<a href="https://notesfromamadhousewife.wordpress.com/2015/08/02/a-probably-different-than-youve-seen-before-flat-felled-seam-tutorial/"> notes of a mad housewife </a>about sewing the back crotch seam up so the seam is exactly in the centre of the pants, not to the side like it is if you flat fell or even faux flat fell the seam. I tried the first method with the zig zag and it worked really well, I should have trimmed down my seam allowance from 5/8" to 3/8" though (I get a bit mixed up with the whole imperial measurement thing sometimes!) and next time I think I'll run a line of basting stiches along the fold lines as I found it a bit hard to measure it exactly evenly when you fold it over.<br />
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Gotta love an elastic waistband!<br />
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Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5480003611864749979.post-4958820552538878642015-09-09T14:23:00.000+09:302015-09-09T14:23:14.531+09:30Grainline Studio 16001: Cascade Coat take 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Its hard to show how much I love this coat in photos - I made it a couple of months ago and have been wearing it non-stop (apologies for the cat hair all over it, as soon as I put it down the cat is on it sleeping!)<br />
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I learnt a fair bit making the first version and therefore changed a few things on this version. The adjustments are the same;<br />
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<li>I made View A with the hood</li>
<li>Size 14 through the shoulders graded to a sz 16 at the hips </li>
<li>Narrowed the shoulders by a further 1/2"</li>
<li>Added front princess seams from Simplicity 2446 with the equivalent of a 1.5" FBA</li>
<li>Changed the armscye by also using S2446</li>
<li>Added to the upper sleeve width and to the sleeve cap (approx. 2" to each)</li>
<li>Wide back adjustment 1.5"</li>
<li>Added a centre back seam</li>
<li>Interfaced the fronts</li>
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Plus;<br />
<li>Took out some size of the hood (next time I'll be making it smaller again)</li>
<li>Added about 3" in length to the body and about 1.5" to the sleeves</li>
<li> Catch-stitched down all the hem facings, I found on the first version they tend to flip out and not sit right, so I catch-stitched these down and then hand stitched down the hems on the sleeves and body. Its makes for a lot nicer coat to wear and didn't really take any more time.</li>
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I used a heavier poly coating this time and the coat sewed up so much nicer and is a lot nicer to wear too. The hood doesn't drag it back as much and its just so more wearable.<br />
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I made my own toggles again, the half circle toggles are a lot harder to sew on so I made these into a triangle shape. I made my own leather cording too, just by cutting strips, doubling them over and stitching. I used pre-cut leather strings last time and I found they have stretched out a lot and they don't have the heft and secure feeling that these do.<br />
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I used a brass zipper I salvaged out of a jacket from the op-shop (the same jacket I used to harvest all the leather from for the toggles)<br />
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Lining is a green rayon from Great Nan-in law's stash. I used plain black for the hood and pocket linings incase it shows.<br />
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This has been my main jacket so far this winter, and I bought some really nice plaid wool blend coating from Lincraft for next years version!Suzyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02665152222823096026noreply@blogger.com12