Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Kitschy Koo: Lady Skater dress

How do I manage to turn a very simple knit dress pattern into a fitting saga?! This is version 4, I'm pretty happy with it, still need to tweak slightly but at least its wearable.

Final version adjustments:
  • Size 4 through the shoulders, graded out to size 8 at the underarm/waist/hips.
  • 1" FBA eased into the side seam.
  • Changed the shape of the armhole.
  • Narrow shoulder adjustment 0.5"
  • Dropped armholes 1"
  • Lengthened the skirt by 2"
  • Petited the bodice by 2"

Muslin 1:  was a straight sz8, it was too big through the shoulders so I cut it back to a sz 4 through the shoulders. (didn't get a pic of muslin 1).

Muslin 2.
Muslin 2: This helped but I had a lot of excess fabric at the underarms/bustline. I pinched out a dart at the armhole and rotated it out to give that J shaped armhole which helped a lot.

Muslin 3
Muslin 3: I still had some draglines, so I dropped the armholes by 1" and it seems pretty good now. I have added some sleeve cap length so the next version though, to stop the drag lines I'm getting on this one.

Final version
I am happy though, I've been needed a knit sloper for ages and I hope to use this either to check fit on new patterns or to hack it.

Fabric is from the clearance table to Spotlight, the print is massively off grain, don't look too much or it will do your head in! I cut it on grain, I don't think the skewed print is too noticeable unless you really look at the waistline seam or the hem and at least it hangs properly.

I added pockets, they are only basic patch ones. I had grand ideas of topstitched inseam ones but by the end I was a bit over it!

Merry Christmas!

Friday, December 19, 2014

Xmas Sewing: wristlet bags

I haven't done much Christmas sewing this year but I did make these 2 bags on the weekend to add to gifts for friends.

The pattern is from dog under my desk and its the essential wristlet. I made her circle pouches last Christmas.

The ninja fabric is Robert Kaufmann and was left over from the Mini ninja quilt.

This fabric was a fat quarter I picked up at a garage sale a couple of years ago and the lining is a Joel Dewberry fabric left over from this quilt

The little swivel clips I picked up from either ebay or etsy in a bulk lot last year, it's nice to finally use them.
I couldn't find the recommended interfacing locally so used a fusible fleece on the outer and a Pellon fusible on the lining.
Next time I make these I will cut a little out of the lining at the base as it doesn't fit as smooth as I'd like inside but otherwise I'm really happy with them.

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Duffle bag

I'm not much of a bag sewer - I tend towards leather handbags and I use a small suitcase normally for holidays. But a duffle bag is always good, easy to fold down into a suitcase for extra fabric shopping storage, lol!
This is my second version, I made myself a boring plain grey one and the daughter picked out this fabric from my stash. I have to admit I'm a bit jealous at how good it looks!

Pattern details:

I used a free pattern from here.

I changed a couple of things design wise - I joined the separate base and side pattern pieces and cut the outer as a single piece. Added a big inside zippered pocket and also added pockets to the ends inside as well. I don't have much craft/bag interfacing so used a woven fusible interfacing I had at home to fuse both the lining and the outer.

Fabric is a digital scuba knit from Spotlight and the lining is a thicker old nylon lining fabric (sort of feels like a ripstop nylon).

I bought the webbing from spotlight as well as the plastic clips. The pattern asks for swivel hooks but I couldn't find them locally so used clips on the straps instead.

Amber wanted a shoulder protector that slips over the strap. I used some scrap wadding and quilted it then bias bound the edges. I copied the shape from an existing bag we have,.

I'm pretty impressed with this pattern, everything turned out pretty good. A couple notes if you don't normally sew bags though;
  • make sure you interface it if you aren't using a heavy canvas/duck cotton.
  • Add in the outer end pockets even if you don't think you'll use them, they help support and shape the ends.
Its a surprisingly huge bag, I took mine recently on an overnight trip to Adelaide and it fitted heaps in, I'm holding it here to give a perspective on how big it is.

Thursday, December 11, 2014

Closet Case Files: Ginger Jeans - purple denim

Another pair of jeans, I've been wearing my first pair heaps lately.


Same as last time;
  • Added 1" to the inner leg seam on the front pattern piece.
  • Adjusted the side seams - I have hyperextended calves and they were dragging the side seam backwards so I added to the back and took from the front to straighten it up.
  • Changed the front pockets to a pocket stay.
  • Shaped the side seams
  • I did a couple of construction changes - I followed my fav zipper tutorial and serged the waistband facing instead of turning under (just helps to reduce bulk with a heavier weight denim).
  • Shaped the waistband to be more curved to stop the gape at the back.
  • Also I added elastic to the waistband to help stabilise/stop stretching out.
  • Took in the side seams as my purple denim was very stretchy
  • Plus I took length out of the legs at the knees from where I had originally added it and I also took some height out of the back rise, again from where I had added it.

I used a purple denim (its either from Rathdowne or GJ's discount fabrics). Its a lot thinner than my first pair and has some good stretch in it.

Topstitching is Gutermann and a matching plain poly thread for the bartacks. I'm definitely more of a fan of the upholstery thread for jeans topstitching, my machine doesn't really like how thick the topstitching thread is and I found it harder to keep an even line with it.

I added a pocket stay - its a quilting cotton that I had in my stash

Not much else to say except I've already cut out my third pair ready to be sewn!