Saturday, February 22, 2014

Lekala 4329 Sewalong: Fitting

I've joined into the Lekala sewalong hosted by Lara at Thornberry. The pattern is 4329 and since Lekala has personalised sizes the theory is that we shouldn't have to adjust the pattern........except for me, lol.
I printed out and taped together the pattern this week. I used my measurements plus adding extra to the back, high waist and making the upper arm 17". Once the pattern was printed (and I checked the 4" printing square) I doubled checked the arm measurement and it was only 16".....based on that I decided to make a muslin.
Now while I really do like Lekala patterns my biggest issue with them is that they work off full bust and don't add an option for a FBA (though they do now allow for a narrow shoulder option and I really should have added that), so the shoulders were too wide on me.
Adjustments I made after the first muslin;
Added 2" to the bicep width
Added .5" to the back width.
Took in the waist 1" at the centre back.
Petited the bodice by 1.5"
Narrowed the shoulders by .75"
Raised the underarm by .75"

Here are the muslin pics,

Muslin 1 is on the left, I'm not sure how noticeable it is in the pics but the waist is too low which makes me feel really square and the shoulders are hanging off my shoulders. I didn't pin muslin 2 properly but the collar does sit like in muslin 1.

I still think the back could have a bit pinched out of my lower back but at least the waist seam isn't hitching on my high hips anymore.

Side view, Muslin 2 is sitting smoother

I raised the armholes by 3/4" so I'd have more movement.
This doesn't really show it well but I can move my arms forward a lot more in the second muslin.
So extra adjustments:
I've added a wedge to the centre of the lower back peplum, I feel like it isn't wide enough and is hitching a bit on my pants.
I've added another .5" to the upper back width and an extra 1" to the arm. I read somewhere once that you should never expect to have as much movement in a fitted jacket as you do in a cardigan which I suppose is true but I hate feeling binded in by a jacket.
I might get my hubbie/daughter to pin out my lower back wrinkles too.
Material wise, I'm shopping my stash. I picked up this dark purple poly crepe and a poly satin in the same clearing sale I got the zipper stand in. There is meters of both (about 6-7m) and they match really well. I've left the lower arms nice and wide too so I can roll up the sleeves and show off the lining.

So if anyone managed to slog their way through that can you pick up anything else that needs to be changed? Sometimes I can't see adjustments I need because I've been staring in the mirror at it too long!

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Simplicity 1783 - Pants


We have been having a heatwave lately, had the hottest day on record a couple of weeks ago. I've never been so thankful to work in an airconditioned office! But it means I need more hot weather pants to wear.

Its funny how sometimes we find a TNT early on and don't appreciate it until we try different patterns! I actually muslined up the StyleArc Tori pant first but found the fit on the legs was terrible on me, my legs must curve in a lot and the Tori pant curves out so they got chucked and out came this pattern again.

Same as last time, I cut about a sz 24 adjusted with my pants block and the fabric is bengaline from Lincraft. I got rid of the waistband and instead used a fold over waistband. They fit really well and are so comfy to wear!

I added pockets on but since I'd raised the back height they are way too low, I used steam a seam before I topstitched though so those suckers are staying put! I've changed the pattern for next time to raise them buy a couple of inches.

I got a bit happy with the iron too and you can see press marks, they should disappear after a wash or two (hopefully)

Thursday, February 13, 2014

Cake 0144: Tiramisu #4

It feels like forever since I blogged, I've been so much sewing but its all been for other people/premmie gowns/quilts/wadders. So heres a nice entry back to some selfish sewing - another Tiramisu!

Fabric is a cotton t-shirt knit from Spotlight with little clouds printed on it and a ponte waistband. I should have taken some close-ups, the fabrics quite cute.

I fiddled a little bit with the fit, its a 40D front and a 45 back plus about 1" added to the bodice length. I had some pulling at the front so it was unpicked and each side moved towards the centre by about 1" on either side so it doesn't cross over as far now. It could still do with some more bodice length, so have added it for next time