Tuesday, December 8, 2015

Closet Case Files: Distressed Ginger Jean shorts

I love sewing my own jeans and I love how much better they fit than rtw, but geez I wish there were more denim options than plain dark denim. So what do you do when you want a pair of light denim or distressed jeans? You play with bleach/sandpaper/scissors!

I made a couple of samples;


Sandblasting (which made no real difference, I used my husbands sandblaster but he has a very fine sand in it so I imagine a coarser sand would work better?);

Sandpaper and bleach;

The pattern is my TNT Ginger Jeans, shortened into above knee shorts. Same adjustments as usual (sz 18, added to inner leg 1", wedge taken from outer leg and extended calf adjustment plus I added a pull on waistband like my last pair)

To get the distressing I did some sandpapering before topstitching, then put the shorts on and marked with chalk the common wear areas. I made a half and half solution of bleach and water in a spray bottle, which I sprayed onto a rag and scrubbed into the fabric (gives a lot more control than just spraying straight onto the fabric). I did it about 5 times, giving it 10-15mins between each application, only dampening the fabric with the bleach solution not saturating it. When I was happy with it I washed them with some vinegar (meant to help stabilise the bleach?) and dried them.

My daughter tells me I did the distressing too low and I agree with her - the fade should have started further up.

I did the cuts with a pair of scissors and tweezers. I wasn't too sure about it to begin with but I'm liking it the more I wear them.

It was a fun project, I wouldn't use the sandpaper again, I don't like the damage it does to the fabric and I doubt I'd do the cuts again either. But I really like how the bleaching went and I'd definitely use that again.

Thursday, December 3, 2015

SBCC: 301 Moto Chic Jacket


I loved Heather Lou's version of this jacket and when I realised I have a similar fabric decided to make a version (imitation is the best form of flattery, right...right?)

Fabric is a mystery herringbone from Lincraft. It pressed as if it had some wool content but I imagine it's mostly polyester.
Lining is a sunsilky from the stash. I made the binding for the hem out of it too.
Because my fabric has a fairly soft hand, I interfaced the entire jacket outer with a medium weft interfacing. I also added a back neck facing.

I made an XL, graded in at the waist to a L.
1" FBA 
1" wide back adjustment
1.5" to the arm width
added 2" to the arm length.
Doubled the back peplum width - when I made it up it just looked too flat and I wanted more gathers!

Its meant to be a cropped jacket, I'm fairly short through the waist so made the length as is and it hits my waistline perfectly. I would prefer to add a couple of inches to the peplum though if I made it again.

The instructions are, well, horrible....they are written as if you were making it out of leather which is fine but if you try to insert the zipper that way its inside out for a fabric jacket....There is a sewalong up now which helps a bit but is also mostly written for leather. I did make a muslin and its fairly obvious how to construct once you've made it. I'll put up with no instructions though if its an interesting pattern and I really do love the shape.

I added some press-studs so I could wear it open - I don't tend to wear any jackets or tops that go up to my neck. I also added the studs to the inner facing as I found mine sagged down. My fabric is fairly thin though, even with it interfaced.

It's an interesting pattern, I like the fit and how the peplum is unlined. Its a pretty version of a moto jacket and would look really nice with a dress too. Even though I look grumpy as hell in these photos I am really happy with it!