Saturday, September 22, 2012

Jalie 2908 vs. Sewaholic 1203





More pants, one bonus of having sewn so many lately is that I can insert a zipper in minutes, lol! But I am getting a bit sick of them and think I'll spend the next week or so catching up on my Mario Quilt-Along!

I loved the legs on the Thurlow pants and I liked the classic jean look of the Jalie back yoke and pockets so this is a bit of a frankenpattern - Thurlow legs and Jalie hips/waist. I used my pants block again, taking about 2cm off the inner and outer seams and lowering the back crotch slightly to allow for the stretch denim. I think I need to take a little out of the front crotch height with stretch denim next time.


The denim was really quite thick and springy so I had to use my walking foot as it wiggled a lot while sewing, that why I didn't do much topstitching either.



I did a 1" fisheye dart as I had a lot of excess back leg fabric on the thurlow pants and it smoothed it out really nicely.


The waistband is quilting cotton fabric (Its Joel Dewberry if anyone's interested).


Its definantly helped with the fit of these pants having a woven facing, the waistband is a lot more rigid and I had hopes it would stop them stretching out but after wearing them today they got a bit looser so I thought I'd add on this back belt detail I saw on a pair of RTW jeans. It helps, but next pair of jeans will have stay tape around the top of the waistband as well!



I'm actually pretty happy with these jeans, I feel like I have a good TNT jeans pattern now and I have some purple denim that's begging me to make it up (but maybe in a couple weeks, lol!)!

22 comments:

  1. Do the purple pair now, before summer hits...as for getting sick of making pants for yourself, I could always send my measurements your way!!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Judith! I probably will do the purple pair soon, I'm loving all the bright jeans around at the moment!

      Delete
  2. Wow you have really conquered pants. These look great!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Another great pair of trousers. The fit on this pair is fantastic. Your frankenpattern has worked out splendidly.

    ReplyDelete
  4. These are probably my favourite pants of yours yet - perfection on the leg and torso silhouette. Extending the woven pocket fabric all the way around the front is a great way of stabilising it - was that part of the Jalie pattern? I'll have to remember that one!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! The pocket stay was in the Jalie pattern, I tend to add it to any pants pattern anyway, stops my pockets from gaping!

      Delete
  5. Those look fabulous on you -- just like RTW only better, as they are custom fitted to you. They are also very slimming, very flattering!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. the fit is very nice! what was the stretch ratio on the fabric, do you know? and where did you place the dart? i usually pull pull up across the seat but between the seams the same amount that i need, to get rid of the excess amount under my butt. if that make the scoop too shallow, i scoop out a tiny bit at a time, but leave the dart.

      you did a really good job putting the two patterns together for your best profile.

      Delete
    2. Hi Barbara, not sure on the stretch ratio as I got this fabric last year and never recorded it.
      Not sure about which dart you mean? The back dart is eliminated by the yoke and the fisheye dart is transferred on to the pattern using Debbie Cook's method here;
      http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com.au/2001/03/alterations-fisheye-dart-pants.html
      Hope that helps!

      Delete
  6. Oh, these look and fitting amazing. I am totally stealing your frankennpattern idea for a pair of jeans in the future.

    ReplyDelete
  7. These pants look great, how happy are you right now that you have amazing fitting pants???? Where do you get your denim from? I have so much troule sourcing some.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! This denim is from GJ's discount fabric in Melbourne, I've bought denim at Rathdowne Fabrics in Melbourne as well and it was really good. Locally I've gotten some from Lincraft/Spotlight but the quality can be pretty bad.

      Delete
  8. wow, have you mastered jean making! Great job!

    ReplyDelete
  9. These are my favourite pants of your so far (okay they are tied with the pink ones). You are the pants guru!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Zoooooomg! Your pants look soo amazing! You should be super, duper proud. Love them. And also congrats on simplifying your zipper insertion! :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much for your help with the pants block! I only wish I'd gotten one earlier!

      Delete