Tuesday, May 8, 2012

McCalls 5525: Violet Trench

I've been thinking about a trench coat for a while, I started this pattern ages ago with a grey polyester peachskin and sew-in interfacing and ended up hating how it looked, then I saw Marie's and this this one on the city chic website I was convinced! I particularly liked the pleats in the back which flare out into the coat skirt.

So first things first - I started with McCalls 5525, traced out the 18 with a 1.5" FBA. The material is a stretch drill and a polyester satin lining. I interfaced the front pieces, front facing, upper back yoke, collar stands and collar with armoweft fusible and the side fronts with a medium knit fusible interfacing.

Pattern changes - Added a upper back yoke and a back facing and then marked and slashed the remaining lower back piece for the pleats which are 1/2" wide and then top stitched down. I pinned them and then hand basted them with silk thread. First time using silk thread and it is so great to use, so easy to sew with and just slides out when removing the basting!

I also changed the position of the front buttons/buttonholes to make them sit a lot closer which seems to be more flattering on larger bodyshapes, and cut off the excess (about 1" wide) from the front of the pattern piece, from the lapel fold line down.
I used the sleeves from M5969 as they are 2 piece sleeves which I already know fit me.
I was hoping to add more details like epaulets but ran out of fabric, infact it got real dicey for a bit, I used a satin for the undercollar because I had no spare fabric!
I'm still not sure if I attached the collar and band properly, I managed to lose the pattern instruction and have never sewn a collar like this before!

Bound buttonholes on the front (don't mind the chalk lines - is there any trick to getting them out other than washing them out?).

I changed the pockets to single welt and added a double welt pocket to the lining - I should have interfaced it a lot more though because its a bit floppy!

I added self drafted sleeve heads from this tutorial and shoulder pads, they still seem a little floppy but look ok when I'm wearing it.

Satin lining - I love how it feels but geez I hate cutting out and sewing it!

I'm really happy with how its turned out and its so comfortable to wear!


  1. Your version looks amazing with the pleats and the bound buttonholes. Love the lining you chose.

    1. Thanks Marie :) I loved your version of it so much I had to have a purple trench too!

  2. Very nice! I'm always impressed by how well this pattern turns out for people. The inside is gorgeous!

  3. That is one professional looking trench! What fabulous finishing and the colour's great too.

  4. So many enviable details- you did such a lovely job. The color is great, too!

  5. Ah, what a gorgeous coat! The colour is fantastic, and I love what you did to the back. :)

  6. You must be delighted with coat - I have the pattern but its in the "to do " pile. The changes you made look great I am so impressed with the workmanship.

  7. Suzy, I am in awe of your skill and I love your use of colour. Fabulous coat. Looks smashing on you. Enjoy it - I am sure you will get a lot of opportunity to wear it over winter.

  8. It is a wonderful trench coat; a great color and lots of style details. Your bound buttonholes look perfect. Fun lining too!

  9. Suzy Bee! OMG! What a stunning trench!!!!! I love trench coats. I love EVERYTHING about your trench! The colour, the lining (wow!!!!) how it fits. Absolutely beautiful

  10. This is stunning! Thanks for all the good tips. I have the fabric picked out for this one but still haven't gotten there...need to do that soon! Thanks for the inspiration!

  11. Your interior finish work looks amazing! Well done! :) (I'd wear it all the time if this were my jacket, too!)

  12. OMG I love this coat! Purple is my favorite color (not sure if it is yours, but you look great in it). Love the lining too, I'm following your blog.