Tuesday, May 8, 2012
McCalls 5525: Violet Trench
I've been thinking about a trench coat for a while, I started this pattern ages ago with a grey polyester peachskin and sew-in interfacing and ended up hating how it looked, then I saw Marie's and this this one on the city chic website I was convinced! I particularly liked the pleats in the back which flare out into the coat skirt.
So first things first - I started with McCalls 5525, traced out the 18 with a 1.5" FBA. The material is a stretch drill and a polyester satin lining. I interfaced the front pieces, front facing, upper back yoke, collar stands and collar with armoweft fusible and the side fronts with a medium knit fusible interfacing.
Pattern changes - Added a upper back yoke and a back facing and then marked and slashed the remaining lower back piece for the pleats which are 1/2" wide and then top stitched down. I pinned them and then hand basted them with silk thread. First time using silk thread and it is so great to use, so easy to sew with and just slides out when removing the basting!
I also changed the position of the front buttons/buttonholes to make them sit a lot closer which seems to be more flattering on larger bodyshapes, and cut off the excess (about 1" wide) from the front of the pattern piece, from the lapel fold line down.
I used the sleeves from M5969 as they are 2 piece sleeves which I already know fit me.
I was hoping to add more details like epaulets but ran out of fabric, infact it got real dicey for a bit, I used a satin for the undercollar because I had no spare fabric!
I'm still not sure if I attached the collar and band properly, I managed to lose the pattern instruction and have never sewn a collar like this before!
Bound buttonholes on the front (don't mind the chalk lines - is there any trick to getting them out other than washing them out?).
I changed the pockets to single welt and added a double welt pocket to the lining - I should have interfaced it a lot more though because its a bit floppy!
I added self drafted sleeve heads from this tutorial and shoulder pads, they still seem a little floppy but look ok when I'm wearing it.
Satin lining - I love how it feels but geez I hate cutting out and sewing it!
I'm really happy with how its turned out and its so comfortable to wear!