Wednesday, February 18, 2015

McCalls 6754: knit dress

Time to battle my arch nemesis again - raglan sleeves! I've had this dress sitting on my wadder shelf for a few months, I had this idea that I could make a knit pattern out of sateen and I just couldn't get the fit right (no big surprises there...). A lot of the fit problems disappeared once I made it in a knit......

Pattern details:
I made view D, the full skirted dress with sleeves.
1" FBA
1.5" added to the sleeve cap length
Added 3" to the skirt length
Added 2" to sleeve length
Added 3" wide waistband
Added inseam pockets

I need to the some length out the back next time, looking at these photos I have some excess there.

The fabric is a medium weight cotton knit, its pretty stiff but is surprisingly nice in a dress. I added the neckline binding instead of turning and topstitching.

So raglan sleeves, I have come to the conclusion that raglan sleeves will have draglines but there is a difference between normal lines and uncomfortable lumps of fabric. Happily for me, adding the sleeve cap length gets rid of a lot of the excess fabric and makes them a lot more comfortable plus gives me more movement so I can live with a few lines.

I haven't been able to find any real advice in adding to a raglan sleeve cap length and have just been adding height across the arm pattern piece and dropping the underarm seam to allow for the extra sleeve cap height, if anyone can refer me to a book/source or give me some information it would be great!

I found the skirt really short, I've added 3" to the length and I still had to add the waistband to drop it lower. I'm glad I added the waistband though, I really like the look with this dress and I'll be doing it again!

I actually like this more than the lady skater dress, a princess seam bodice is always going to fit better on me and I like that the skirt is full without being a circle skirt (its roughly about a 3/4 circle skirt). Plus with the added length to the skirt and arms I can wear it to work and what's not good about wearing what is essentially pyjamas to work all day!


  1. Love your dress! My daughter made this out of some stretch velour. While she is considerably thinner than I am, we both have these problems with raglan sleeves, too. They always feel too tight and constricting, and seem to emphasize our broad shoulders. I have been unable to find out much information on making adjustments, either.

  2. I love princess seams--they seem to work really well for me. I may have to try that pattern--it looks good on you. It is like a skater skirt dress--the waistband and the pockets are great details.

  3. Great dress, love the pockets, and the colour is fab on you.

  4. That is great! I love the pockets, and also really like the added waistband. This pattern is in my stash, too. Maybe I'll make one as well!