Tuesday, July 10, 2012
Sewaholic 1203: Denim Thurlow pants
As soon as I was emailed about this pattern I ordered it! I've had a lot of trouble fitting Sewaholic tops/dresses on me (even though I've made heaps for my Mum/daughter), but since the crescent skirt fitted me so well I figured the pants would too.
I made the first version as a pair of shorts for my daughter, they weren't a success (I based them off a pair of shorts she told me fit well, after I had nearly finished the thurlow shorts she tells me that she hadn't worn them in months and the rise was way too low and the waist was too tight......) but they did give me a go at the construction. The major thing I changed was the fly, I had a lot of trouble wrapping my head around the instructions and wasn't really happy with the end product so on my pants I changed the pattern to a cut on fly and followed my normal tutorial. This let me cut two of the same front legs rather than a left and right front leg.
I also did the no-fail welt pockets here since it worked so well on my Sailor pants.
All told they went together quite well, I scooped out the back crotch curve by a lot but otherwise they are a straight size 16 in a stretch denim I think I got at Lincraft (its not the best quality material but good enough for the first go). I tend to cut wide seam allowances and fit pants as I go instead of making a muslin as its so hard to match the same stretch material but I ended up cutting off all the wide seam allowances as the pattern has a lot of built in ease (5" as its designed for woven fabrics).
I am really happy with them, I had a minor freak out at my first try on, because they were too big in the legs and because the rear crotch seam wasn't sewn (you do it last) I had a lot of fabric pooling at the back and it looked terrible! Thankfully after I took in the seams and basted the rear seam it started to look better and once the waistband was on I was happy! Its not perfect but good enough for me!
Next version I'm adding a little extra to the rise at the back, they don't sit really low but I like them slightly higher than they are. Plus some stay tape to the pocket edge as I've found they have started to stretch out.
I highly recommend this pattern, especially if you have curvy hips/thighs. I have a lot of trouble with RTW pants and usually stick to a wide leg pant because I hate how tight usual bootleg/flare jeans are at my knees but these start to flare above the knee and skim down to a nice wide hem. Also, the pockets don't gape!