Thursday, July 5, 2012

McCalls 5525: Shauntung trench finished!

Finally done! If I wasn't so stubborn about finishing everything this would have become a wadder as it was such a frustrating project to finish! Its all my own fault, even though a fusible interfacing worked beautifully on the Violet trench because the shantung was so much thinner I think a sew-in interfacing would have saved me a lot of headaches! The interfacing has buckled a bit and tends to crease and you've got to be so careful ironing it. Plus the bound buttonholes and welt pockets just don't look as nice in the shantung, they've creased a bit on the edges so I probably would have been better off doing standard buttonholes and in seam pockets, but we live and learn I suppose.....
I think some form of weight in the hem would be good too, it puffs out at the back a lot more than my Violet trench.

I used satin cord inside of my piping for the first time too.....I don't recommend it, it hasn't got as much of a ridge for the zipper foot to go up against so its harder to get it sewn in evenly compared to using normal piping cord.

Somehow it ended up being a single breasted coat not a double breasted? I'm still not quite sure how I did it, just made it a bit too tight I think and so its a lot more comfortable as a single button up coat.

But at least its done! It's one more off my UFO list and I learnt a few lessons on fabric and interfacing choice!


  1. I love the fabric you chose for the's so pretty and fun! Sorry that there are pieces of the coat that didn't turn out as you expected but it does look wonderful.

  2. Well I think it looks brilliant!!! Love the back detail, and such a wearable colour. I also had an issue with a Marci Tilton jacket that sat out a bit, added a piece of chain to the inside hemline and it made a difference. Adds a touch of 'CHANEL' class and practicality...

  3. Well, I can't tell about the interfacing and bound buttonholes. I think it looks amazing. Great color. Love the belt.

  4. I am just speechless with admiration. No one but you will ever know or notice the differences. That's a fabulous jacket.

  5. This jacket looks great. I can't believe it was a potential UFO. I too have learned what an impact the choice of fabric can make to a project.

  6. Wow, that jacket looks fab - hard to believe you nearly sent it into wadderdom.

  7. I think Google ate my comment. Sigh.

    I know this is an older post. I am considering making this trench and wanted to know about your back facing. I know how to make one; I wanted to know how you attached it to the front. Did you sew the facing to the back lining and then attach it to the front facing-lining unit? Other jackets/coats that I've sewn included front and back facing pieces. I was surprised that this one didn't and wanted to know how you addressed it in this coat. Thank you so much.

    1. Hi L, yep I attach it to the back lining then attach that to the front lining. Theres a really good post here:
      On how to draft the back facing and another post here;
      On how to assemble and it all.
      Hope that helps! Suzy

  8. Many thanks! This helps a lot.

    I love all of your versions of M5525 and am inspired to use a print for my second trench. Thanks again!