Saturday, January 7, 2012
BurdaStyle Handbook: Coat
So after reviewing the BurdaStyle handbook and not being overly excited about it, my daughter found a coat when thrifting that she loved but was too small. The closest pattern i had was the Burdastyle coat with a few adjustments. Now let me preface this with saying that I very rarely sew for my daughter these days - she never seems to appreciate it and the few things I have sewn for her in the past sit in her wardrobe never worn. Still I thought I'd give this a go, so I first made her a muslin which was way too small, after I realised I hadn't added in seam allowances (D'oh!), I retraced the pattern and tissue fitted her. I made a Sz 40, graded out to a 44 at the waist. Its a bit big on her at the moment, but she want's to be able to wear a jumper/hoodie under it in winter and for it to last all year without growing out of it.
On the coat skirt, I turned the pleats into darts and rotated them out to form a A-Line skirt plus added some width as she wanted it gathered around the waist. I shortened the bodice by 2", raised the bust line by 1", added about 1/2" to both arm and back width - She swims alot and I think thats why her shoulders/back are a little bit bigger than average.
I added belt loops and made a very simple belt. Lots of topstiching everywhere I could fit it too!
The main fabric is an uncoated Twill that was in the home decorater section, it was the closest colour and fabric match we could find and looks and feels like a cotton drill. Its not really photgraphing well, its a deep emerald colour in real life.
The lining was some satin I got off the clearance table at Spotlight. I must say I put it up with the worst fabric I've ever sewn, its very thin and really slippery, it acts like a bias cut fabric even when its on grain, good thing it looks so nice! I bagged the lining out from the instructions in Jackets for Real People (gee those book titles get me every time - is there a series for plastic people too, lol)
I installed a hidden pocket inbetween the facing and lining from the instructions in Kenneth Kings Cool Couture, plus put piping around all the facings
I'm actually really happy with it - it feels quite young and bright which suits her, and I love the contrast of the bright satin lining. If I made it again I'd make the pockets lots bigger and lower - she has trouble getting her hands in. At least she wanted to wear it as soon as I'd finished so I think I've made a winner!
I'm not quite sure why I've had the urge to make jackets in the middle of Summer - same reason why I make dresses in winter I suppose!