Monday, September 26, 2011

Simplicity 4885 Jacket

Pattern Description: Misses/Miss petite top, pants, skirt, jacket and scarf.

Pattern Sizing:I made the 20 with adjustments

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, pretty close

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, I didn't follow them though because I used Jackets for real People.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the classic blazer look, its a nice base pattern to change up depending on the look you want.

Fabric Used: Cotton sateen for the main fabric and I used a rayon lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: FBA for about 2" and widened the back for 1". I lined the jacket and did double welt pockets and bound buttonholes. I added shoulder pads and sleeve heads. Piping around the lining. I changed the one piece sleeves to a two piece sleeve from McCalls 5936.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? yes I will be sewing this again (in a gaberdine though, not another sateen).

Conclusion: I found a similar jacket in a local store (Sussans) and decided to copy it. I'm pretty happy with it, I wish I'd made it a bit longer but it's a nice basic jacket for the office. It was my first time doing a lot of the tailoring techniques, geez they take up some time!!

So, where do I start - this jacket felt like it took me ages (prob about 20hours at least). I actually cut out the original sleeves, set them in wasn't really happy with them, slept on it and then took them out and put in a two piece sleeve that looks a lot better and set in a lot easier.

I had my first go at welt pockets, which are still a bit bunchy on the ends (even though I did a practise one) - I think it was from going slightly over the length guidelines?? I had another go at bound buttonholes, this time following Jackets for Real People (last time it was out of Kenneth Kings book Cool couture, which is the best guide for piping and hidden pockets). I'm ok with them, they look better than my other attempt, but they don't really bind the edges and in a heavier fabric would be very thick. Sateens such an unforgiving fabric that next time I want to use a black gaberdine I have in my stash and make the jacket a bit longer.

I stuffed up on the facing holes for the buttonholes, they are a bit big but not too noticable I think. It was my first time using shoulderpads, I'm still surprised that they subtly add to the line of the jacket, I've never used them before - too worried it would look like a powersuit from the 80's!!


  1. Great job! I love the idea of following a tailoring book when sewing a jacket. Looks like you're getting lots of practice! Looks great! The fit is awesome.

  2. Thankyou! Looking at it now I wish I'd interfaced the front and side pattern pieces (Why do I always think of these things afterwards, lol)

  3. Very smart jacket. I have this pattern and am thinking about making it up. Thanks for sharing yours.