More pants fitting posts for the Curvy Sewing Collective

I've done a couple more posts for the CSC and thought I would link them here.

Creating an stretch pants block

Using an stretch pants block

Creating a pocket stay

Let me know if they aren't clear enough!

Using a pants block:

I was asked recently to post up how I use my pants block. I just want to say, this is the way I do it, I'm sure there are different ways and I'm certainly not an expert! If anyone can suggest a smarter or different way to do it, please do!

I've traced my pants blocks onto cardboard, I have one set with darts and one set with no darts. The different seam lines are just for woven and stretch fabrics. When use a stretch fabric I drop the rear crotch and take in the sides. You don't need to put it onto cardboard but I find it easier to see under my pattern.

First step (This is the back of the pants). Mark the stitching lines on the top of the pants piece and the bottom of the waistband then align.

 

I slide my pants block under at this stage and make sure the grain lines are parallel.

 

I usually line up the crotch line on the pants block and the pattern, this way the inner leg length stays the same length and doesn't need adjusting later.

 

Adjust the pattern pieces to match the pants block (you can see my lines in red texta)

 

 

I extend my lines downwards following the same shape as the pattern to add extra width because I usually need it.

 

Same thing with the front - Line up waistband and pants stitching lines.

 

 

Make sure the grainlines are parallel

 

 

 Adjust the crotch and side seams

I usually have to make a fold in the front panel to line up the front and drop the centre front  waistband height.

After I've adjusted the front and back I walk the seamlines to check that it all matches (I used to skip that until I made 2 pairs of pants that fit kind of weirdly and I realised it was because of the seamlines not matching up properly).

 

This was an easy pattern to adjust, usually I have to drop a lot more in the front and raise the centre back a lot more. If a pattern has pockets I just overlap them and line up the stitching lines like we did with the waistband and top of the pants.

I should mention too that even with adjusting the flat pattern I still cut out the fabric with large outer seam allowances (about 1" extra) as a fitting allowance, once its basted I try it on and adjust to fit. Its always easier to take it in than to try and add width!

I can do more of these posts with different patterns and style of pants  if anyone is interested?

Maria Denmark 301: Winnie Trousers

*Autumn SWAP*

I really liked this pattern when I saw Sew Busy Lizzy's version and figured you can never have too many pairs of basic black trousers!

I used my pants block to adjust the pattern but I was pretty impressed with this pattern, I had to add width and about 1" to the back rise and dropped the front rise by about 1" which is a lot less than normal.

The fabric is bengalene out of my stash and the facings are the leftover scraps of sateen from the Christmas Macaron dress. I had this dubiously great idea of cutting the facing on the opposite grain to negate the stretch....It worked well, it has stopped the stretch but was a bit of a beast to sew and I really should have used a walking foot to make it easier. I used stay tape around the waist as well to stop it from stretching out. I've just downloaded Sandra Betzinas book Power sewing and found the elastic waistband treatments really interesting but in the end I didn't allow enough ease in the waist to use one.

I changed the front pocket piece to have a pocket stay (I do this on all my pants patterns, stops the pockets gaping and makes a flatter front to pants)

And because I always love Amanda's funny pics, heres some catalogue poses :)

 

Yep, we're idiots, lol.

Colette Patterns: 1024 Juniper Pant

Well I think everyone knows I love a wide leg pant and Colette patterns tend to fit me quite well so I ordered this pattern as soon as I saw it.

The pattern is a basic wide leg pant (drafted as a trouser not a jean). I used my pants block which was a life saver as the front crotch curve on these is almost a straight line, you can see my block underneath and the original pattern piece on top in this pic;

Otherwise the legs are pretty much a sz16/18 but I have sewn these with stretch denim when they recommend a woven fabric.

I had to take them in on the legs a bit as they are drafted quite wide and almost taper slightly to the ankle. I added in a pocket stay too as they aren't drafted with one.

I feel a little meh about these pants, its not that this is a bad pattern per say, and the instructions would be great for someone who hadn't sewn many pants before, but I'm just not finding them that exciting. Still they are a nice wide leg pant and I probably will sew them again.

On a side note, I'm still working away at the Vogue 8333 jacket I just needed a bit of a break! Plus after dealing with the serger from hell lately I have a brand new Elna 654 overlocker (early birthday present to myself) that I'm itching to use, so expect to see a few tops and more pants sewing over the next few weeks while I learn to use it! Its so exciting to have a serger that works as a 4 thread overlocker and sews consistently!

Jalie 2908 frankenpattern jeans and jeans month wrap-up

Another pair of pants from the Jalie 2908/Sewaholic 1203 frankenpattern. This denim wasn't as stretchy as the last lot so these have some added width to the sides. I did want these to fit tighter though as I'm getting really sick of them stretching out so I made them right on the verge of firm fitting and it seems to have worked well.

I did top-stitching with proper top-stitching thread this time. Years ago there were jeans advertised with red top-stitching and I always wanted some so finally I have a pair! I like the look of the stitching, it makes them look like 'real' jeans! I did use silk thread the same colour for the bartacks and buttonholes though, my machine really hates top-stitching thread and just wouldn't do the bartacks.

Not much more to say about them. The denim was from Lincraft and is a bit thin and crappy so am not sure how it will wear. I'm really happy with this pattern now, I like having TNT patterns. Its easier to concentrate on the sewing and details without having to worry so much about fit.

A quick note about stay taping the waist, the best way I've found to make the waist fit properly is to try the pants on, pin the stay tape to the waist while wearing them and then sew the stay tape in (you may have to stretch the waist seam to fit the stay tape properly). When I was sewing it in without trying on and pinning it first I found they ended up too tight and without the stay tape they gradually stretched out over the day.



Vogue 8751: Grey Linen

More pants, I guess everyone is getting really sick of seeing them! I promise I will be sewing something else one day!

Same pattern as last time, I added the extra width (about 2cm to inner and outer seams) and in the end I decided that I can't quite get away with 3 buttons at the front as it means the zipper has to sit down too low so I cut the waistband back at the front which raised the zipper and got rid of the bunching I was getting with the last pair.

Other than the pink linen pants I've never actually owned linen pants, I've never even seen them in my size in RTW. I have read that the more you wash them the softer they get and that seems to be happening to the pink ones. The linen is a lot more comfortable than I thought it would be to wear, it has a bit of give and this one is pretty soft. As much as I love the bright pink pants I haven't worn them in public yet, so these are my sensible linen pants, lol.

I think I'm going to need to make my pants a bit tighter though, the last pair has stretched out a bit and so have these already, even with the stay tape at the waistband. This week I'm going to unpick the waistbands and tighten them up a bit, its annoying but I'd rather have to do this than make them too small in the beginning.

PS; if you live in Australia Lincraft is having a 40% off fabric sale (I think it starts next week for non-members?). I've been impressed with their bengalene but the ponte I got from there isn't wearing well, its pilled pretty bad.

Vogue 8751: Pinstripe pants

So more pants! My kids are staying at their cousins house and my hubbie is on afternoon shift so I made these last night. The material is from the op shop, first good find I've had in ages! It's got a subtle pinstripe through it and has some stretch, I think it might be a polyester blend.

I've made this pattern a lot before but since using my pants block I've become a lot more picky with the way my pants fit so I retraced the pattern and used my pants block on it. The front looks ok in these photos but in real life I think the zipper is too low and it needs a little extra in the front rise as it bunches a bit when I walk plus I had to drop the rear crotch by a lot too which makes me think I may have made these pants a tad too tight in the hips so next pair I'll put the zipper slightly higher and add some extra width to the sides.
I used a polkadot cotton on the waistband facing and stay tape around the top of the waistband. I changed the pockets from in seam pockets and added a pocket stay.

 Even after getting the pants block and sewing all these pants its still a bit of crap shoot to get a pair of perfect pants, there are so many factors like material and adjusting the pattern properly that affect the finished pants. I have a real tendency to overfit pants too which I'm trying to break myself of.
I'm a huge convert of the pants block though, it just gives you that extra help before you start and the rest of the pants are so much easier to fit if the crotch area is right.