Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Grainline Studio 16001: Cascade Coat take 2

Its hard to show how much I love this coat in photos - I made it a couple of months ago and have been wearing it non-stop (apologies for the cat hair all over it, as soon as I put it down the cat is on it sleeping!)

I learnt a fair bit making the first version and therefore changed a few things on this version. The adjustments are the same;

  • I made View A with the hood
  • Size 14 through the shoulders graded to a sz 16 at the hips
  • Narrowed the shoulders by a further 1/2"
  • Added front princess seams from Simplicity 2446 with the equivalent of a 1.5" FBA
  • Changed the armscye  by also using S2446
  • Added to the upper sleeve width and to the sleeve cap (approx. 2" to each)
  • Wide back adjustment 1.5"
  • Added a centre back seam
  • Interfaced the fronts

  • Plus;
  • Took out some size of the hood (next time I'll be making it smaller again)
  • Added about 3" in length to the body and about 1.5" to the sleeves
  •  Catch-stitched down all the hem facings, I found on the first version they tend to flip out and not sit right, so I catch-stitched these down and then hand stitched down the hems on the sleeves and body. Its makes for a lot nicer coat to wear and didn't really take any more time.

  • I used a heavier poly coating this time and the coat sewed up so much nicer and is a lot nicer to wear too. The hood doesn't drag it back as much and its just so more wearable.

    I made my own toggles again, the half circle toggles are a lot harder to sew on so I made these into a triangle shape. I made my own leather cording too, just by cutting strips, doubling them over and stitching. I used pre-cut leather strings last time and I found they have stretched out a lot and they don't have the heft and secure feeling that these do.

    I used a brass zipper I salvaged out of a jacket from the op-shop (the same jacket I used to harvest all the leather from for the toggles)

    Lining is a green rayon from Great Nan-in law's stash. I used plain black for the hood and pocket linings incase it shows.

    This has been my main jacket so far this winter, and I bought some really nice plaid wool blend coating from Lincraft for next years version!


    1. Oh wow I love that! I really need a similar weight and shape of coat, but I don't think I'm up to sewing a coat, yet. Maybe next year? Your finishing is so neat.

    2. Awesome coat and really helpful post as well. Glad you're enjoying it, it looks great.

    3. Very nice! Smart move putting in those princess seams. They really do the trick!

    4. Great looking coat! I'm planning to make one of these this fall, and I think I'll follow your lead and add princess seams.

    5. AAA it looks so good! You are not helping me resist this pattern. I love your toggles. :)

    6. Great colour for a coat. QQ can I ask what dressform you're using? I want/need/want one. Thanks.

    7. Love the coat - ideal for the past winter cold days where you live! And the trademark pop of colour inside, just brilliant ... J

    8. Okay, you've convinced me. I'm sewing this coat up, just waiting on my fabric. I'm going to do a muslin in some cotton canvas as a wearable fall jacket though to test the fit before I dive into my nice wool.

      I have a question for you though. How did you convert to a princess seam on the front? I'm considering trying that, but I have no idea where to start on that! Any advice would be helpful. :)

      1. Hi Heather :) I cheated with adding the princess seams and used a coat/jacket is already adjusted and just copied it. If you wanted to do it properly I'd probably add darts to the front and then convert the darts in princess seams. This tutorial is a good one for turning them into princess seams;
        Let me know if you get stuck, I can photos of what my pattern pieces look like and that might help you :)

      2. Ooo, that's a good idea! I have a coat pattern that has princess seams - maybe I'll pull it out tomorrow and play around a bit. :) Thanks! I'm pretty excited about this jacket and coat. I'm really hoping that I can come up with something similar to yours.