Friday, October 24, 2014

Pattern testing - Closet Case Files: Ginger Jeans





I was lucky enough to pattern test these, I know there was a bit of controversy over pattern testing and bloggers always saying nice things about the new pattern but I can honestly say I love these jeans!

I've always stuck to wide leg jeans, they were the only type that would ever fit over my thighs and I had a couple of horrible change room experiences that cemented the no-skinny jean rule firmly in my mind! This is why I love to pattern test though - it pushes me way out of my comfort zone and into clothes I might not normally sew or wear. This is my first ever pair of stovepipe/skinny leg jeans and I am a convert!


So the pattern: These are View A with the stovepipe leg. I made a size 18 (the test pattern was pretty generous - by my measurements I should be a sz20. This has been corrected on the finished pattern though). I muslined them up in cheap denim first and made a few adjustments;
  • Added 1" to the inner leg seam on the front pattern piece.
  • Added 1" length at the knee
  • Added 1" to the centre back height (this is a bit much though and I'll be halving it next time)
  • Adjusted the side seams - I have hyperextended calves and they were dragging the side seam backwards so I added to the back and took from the front to straighten it up.
  • Changed the front pockets to a pocket stay.
  • Shaped the side seams - my muslin was in a thin denim and the legs draped fine, this denim is a lot thicker and just looked bunchy so I shaped it to fit my lower thighs and knee area.
  • I did a couple of construction changes - I followed my fav zipper tutorial and serged the waistband facing instead of turning under (just helps to reduce bulk with a heavier weight denim).
  • Shaped the waistband to be more curved to stop the gape at the back.
  • Also I added elastic to the waistband to help stabilise/stop stretching out.

I'm really impressed with the pattern - I've sewn a few different jeans patterns now and these are the least adjusted pair so far. They are generous through the thigh and butt area and are a higher rise at the back to the front which I always look for.

The instructions are written towards someone who hasn't sewn jeans before plus there is an upcoming sewalong to follow as well. I had trouble with the original zipper instructions but I've just read the final pattern instructions and I can recommend them now, they are very similar to how I do my zipper install and nice and simple to follow.

I totally ran out of ideas to top stitch the back pockets so just left them plain, I did stitch one of my labels to the corner for something different.


All the top stitching is with upholstery thread and the bar tacks in the same colour normal thread.


Now all I can think about is more pairs of jeans! I have a nice thin purple denim that would be great in this pattern and could be rolled up to be capri length in summer and my daughter has a pair of shorts that are serged in hot pink thread and then cuffed so you can see the serging which I want to copy as well!

36 comments:

  1. I am so excited to see your review! I was hoping someone on the higher end of the CLoset Case Files sizing spectrum would post their experience right away for my own selfish reasons. I have similar pants fitting issues and am basically the same size in them as you it seems. I have found one pair of RTW skinny jeans (Levi curvy fit) that come even close to fitting full thighs, bum and legs. These look great on you! Love all the top stitching, the pocket placement on the rear is perfect. The dark wash is terrific. Your jeans are just awesome. And how sweet is that lining fabric?!

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  2. Jeans look great love all the top stitching. I would not have guessed you had made them yourself

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  3. Suzy, I seriously need to have an intensive lass with you on pants fitting because yet again YOU WIN AT JEANS! These are RAD! :D :D :D

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  4. You've done an awesome job with these jeans. The finished product says it all. Your details and fit really stand out.

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  5. Awesome - so glad to see this! I was thinking about buying this pattern and the kit, but this sells me. I'm shaped very similarly to you, and those look super cute on you!

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  6. I love these so much! I added a stay for my high waisted versions and they suck EVERYTHING in! Such a great trick. Thanks again for being such a gracious, wonderful tester!

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  7. As I posted in your Pattern Review, I love these! They look similar to my favorite pair of jeans (from Old Navy, of all places), but with the fitting tweaks I'd like to make. Can I ask a HUGE favor? Would you mind posting a pic of what you did to alter the calf portion of the leg? I have the same fit issue in RTW jeans, and I'd like to know how to fix it if/when I tackle these.

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    1. Hi Michele, I corrected my side seams by putting the pants on inside out and pinning the side seam straight. Threads have an article on how to do it here;
      http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/27060/making-a-side-seam-read-true/page/all
      Hope that helps!

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  8. I am in love with your jeans!!!! Can you please do a quick tutorial on how to do those front pockets.... will help with bulging tummy ones!

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    1. Hi dicca85, Heather Lou is going to be showing how to draft up the pocket stay in her up coming sewalong for this pattern :)

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  9. You did a wonderful job on your jeans! They fit you well!

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  10. These look great on you. Well done.

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  11. You, my friend, are the queen of pants. Wait...that doesn't sound right...

    Seriously, you make the best trousers and jeans and general leg hugging garments ever, and you make me want to try them out again. I might have to buy this pattern, because your jeans look fantastic! And a jean's pattern designed for beginner pant's makers? YES MA'AM!

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  12. Those are a great fit for you I can see why you love them

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  13. These look great, excellent fit, I might be tempted to try this pattern after seeing yours.

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  14. These are awesome and look fantastic on you! I understand why you want to make more!

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  15. These are just a perfect fit. Beautiful work. I LOVE your top stitching! I can't get upholstery thread to work in my machine.

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  16. Holy smokes these look AMAZING. I mean, YOU look amazing. And they make your booty look awesome. I'm so glad Heather got some testers at the top of the range, I wouldn't have considered these at all but yours just look so good (especially when I compare to the jeans I made which definitely have the dreaded mum butt).

    Did you draft the pocket stay, or did it come with the pattern?

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    1. Hi Sophie-Lee, I drafted the pocket stay myself but I know Heather Lou is showing how to draft one in the upcoming sewlong for this pattern :)

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    2. Perfect! I know they're one of the "secrets" to nice fitting jeans, at least for those of us with a little puku

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  17. Oh dear seems like my internet ate the comment I thought I left a few days ago! But ooh I love good stovepipe jean :) They're very flattering on you! Gotta ask - where is your denim from? I've been (non-actively) searching for denim just like this! Your top stitching is the bomb - love the simple pockets :)

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    1. Thanks! The denim is from Rathdowne Fabrics, I got it last year, I think they said it was Bettina liano denim 😊

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  18. One word WOW! You look amazing in these!!!
    Would you mind me sharing your jeans on SSB in the future? I credit, link to your post and let you know when featured. https://facebook.com/sassysewingbees

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    1. Hi Sassy T, that's fine thanks :)

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  19. I love these! The topstitching looks great! I love your shoes and the lining fabric, too!

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  20. You look fantastic in these! Love love LOVE!!!

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  21. These look fantastic. Well done. I would have never thought to use upholstery thread for top-stitching. These are a great shape.
    Well done!

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  22. Wow! Your new jeans look totally snazzy. I too have always balked at skinny jeans when I go and try on RTW. But these really do look amazing on you. I might actually have to try them out!

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  23. Suzy, you rock! Thanks for taking the "cringe" out of wanting to make jeans. I'm getting this pattern and I can't wait for the sewalong.

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  24. Fab. I will let you know as and when.

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  25. These look great on you! I am also glad to see someone at the higher end of the sizing make these up. I have a jeans pattern I keep tinkering with but your experience encourages me to try these.

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  26. thanks so much for this review! they look great!

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  27. ook.com/sassysewingbees ❀

    Featured on SSB. Thanks for permitting.
    https://facebook.com/sassysewingbees ❀

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