Wednesday, October 22, 2014

McCalls 6953: Rayon maxi dress


I think this summer's uniform is going to be the maxi skirt for me! I've been wearing my Gabriola skirt heaps lately so it just seemed natural to make a maxi dress as well.

This pattern has a few variations, I made Amber the hi-lo hem version and this is View D with the maxi skirt.

So the adjustments;
  • sz20 with d cup
  • 1" fba
  • 1" wedge from back neck alongside of the zipper
  • 2" petite bodice
  • 1" wedge out of bustline length
  • shirring panel on side
  • lowered neckline
  • added waistband
  • added pockets from Simplicity 2588
I'm not overly happy with the bodice, it took 1 tissue fitting and 2 muslins and I'm still not completely happy.

Every time I try one of these cup size patterns I end up adjusting the fit more than if I'd started with a basic B cup bodice. This time I started with a d-cup bodice and had to do a 1" fba on the first muslin then had to take a big wedge out of length on the second - its like I need the width but not the length I'm finding - I really should add to the side seams which would let me do a smaller fba and also allow for an easier sleeve adjustment each time.

I had to take a wedge out the back neckline along the zipper as it was gaping, same as I had to on Amber's dress. This is not a common adjustment for me so I tend to think its more of a fault on the pattern.

Fabric is a rayon from the clearance table at spotlight - its a nice weighty rayon. I used a cotton poplin for the lining and a cotton sateen for the waistband. The photo below is more true to the colour.

The dress isn't designed with the waistband but I found it was just too much pattern without it, this fabric really needed a break.

I think the next maxi dress I make will be a frankenpattern of this skirt with the bodice of Vogue 8648, I just need to find some more decent rayon!


  1. That is a fabulous dress.. Love that fabric.

  2. So pretty what a great dress for summer. Love the color on you and nice fit.

  3. I like your touch of adding the waist feature. It makes this dress pop.

  4. Beautiful dress, love the print it really suits you. Looking at the pictures I think you made a really good job of the fitting.

  5. The belt is perfect. Lovely dress.

  6. Beautiful dress, the belt is exactly the right touch.

  7. Lovely dress - it will be perfect for Summer. You pick up the best bargains at SL.

  8. Ooo lovely! Heh, I didn't realize it was a maxi dress at (why no, I didn't read the title first, why do you ask?!) until I scrolled down and scrolled down some more and the dress didn't stop! lol It turned out really nice, I love the fabric you chose.

  9. Suzy, this is worth the adjustments! Damn this is a gorgeous frock and that colour on you is stunning!

  10. Gorgeous fabric and the waistband was a good call. fabulous dress!

  11. Gorgeous dress. The rayon print is lovely.
    I agree about the waistband. It would have been just way too much print.

  12. I love that fabric and the dress is so pretty!
    I keep looking at the bodice since you said you weren't totally content with it. I am wondering if you dropped the waist band on it by a bit(inch to an inch and half?) and sculpt it in a bit do you think you might like the fit better on you? I am not sure how tall you are, so I am trying to "see" where your natural waist line falls. Would that possibly help how the bodice is seating ?
    I know that is nit-picking because the dress is lovely as is! I totally understand, though, how when making something that is a custom piece that you want it to fit totally.