Monday, April 27, 2015

Grainline Studio 14001 : Morris Blazer





I love me a knit blazer - my unofficial work uniform is ponte pants and some form of drapey cardigan so when I saw this new pattern on Instagram I got it straight away.

I made a quick muslin to check for fit and then cut into my good ponte. I still had to do a bit of fitting as I sewed. I thought I could get away without a proper FBA and just use a cheater one but you can still see a lot of draglines in this blazer. I added an armhole dart which helped but on my next version it will have a proper FBA which I reckon I'll rotate out into princess seams.





Adjustments;

  • Size 14 through the shoulders
  • Graded out to a size 18 from the underarms and down
  • Dropped armholes by 1"
  • Changed the armhole shape
  • Added a dart at the armhole
  • Shaped the side seams







Material is a purple ponte from Clear it and a black ponte from Lincraft. I used a knit weft interfacing on the facings. I had a bit of buckling happening at the front so I stitched down them down. Its still buckling slightly but I can live with it. I've seen this on a few knit version made up, seems to be the difference in the weight and stretch of the facings to the main.


The instructions are pretty good. I did change one thing though - it has you turn under an edge on the facings and stitch them down, I serged the edge and didn't turn it under before topstitching to reduce bulk. The sleeves are sewn in the round rather than sewn in flat. This does allow changes and adjustments to the armhole shape and it does feel like you have more movement but I'd still prefer to sew them in flat!


I will sew it again - in fact I've already cut out my next one with a couple of changes. I've worn this version all day today though and its seriously comfortable!

13 comments:

  1. Looks great! Love your colorblocking. I've got mine cut out and partially sewn up- hope it looks a nice as yours!

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  2. I love how you used a contrasting fabric for the sleeves and lapels, and I'm looking forward to seeing your next one!

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  3. Love it! I've yet to see a not-so-good version of this blazer, it seems to work for everyone!

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  4. Looks great! I like your use of contrast. I'll be waiting to see what your princess seamed version looks like, since I'd likely need to make the same changes to avoid the same draglines.

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  5. Very nice! I am cutting out fabric for this today. I like how it hangs on you, it doesn't look too stiff.

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  6. Ohhh this looks tops! I love the idea of a knit blazer- I have one for work and it is seriously the comfiest thing ever. Can't wait to see your next one and a breakdown of the fit adjustments you use :D

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  7. Love the look of a vest and a top.

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  8. I too am looking forward to seeing your fit adjustments in the next version. I just bought this pattern and will definitely make it soon. I'm thinking leather....

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  9. I like the idea of doing a princess seam! I bet you could tack the facing down at the princess seam, right? I've got a feeling I'll be tacking that bugger down in all my versions! I hate floppy facings!

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  10. Oh it looks great! As always, I love your fabric choices. I can't wait to see the next one!

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  11. Question: when you dropped the armholes, did you have to make any changes to the sleeve piece? On my Morris the armholes are really snug.

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    1. Hi Meg, I didn't change the sleeve piece - the sleeve caps have enough ease on this pattern that they still fitted in fine :)

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