Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Vogue 1364: ponte jacket


I ordered a couple of patterns in the latest vogue sale and this was one of them. It didn't look that great on the pattern cover but I did like the line drawing and I do wear a couple of waterfall front cardigans a lot to work in the cooler weather.

The pattern does say its a loose fitting jacket and it really is. I cut a size F and graded in at the waist to a size E, which is 3 sizes smaller than I should have cut. I didn't make any bust adjustments and it looks ok, so it is pretty forgiving in the front. Material is a ponte knit from Lincraft

I really, really like the pockets, they are a single pattern piece which is sewn to the front of the jacket, you do see the stitching lines on the front but they sit beautifully flat and are a really neat idea, I will be using it again on casual jackets and I think they would work well on pants too.

I did shorten the length and the sleeves by a couple of inches. The collar was a bit of a pain, it sat beautifully before I did a rolled hem around it but then it just wouldn't sit smooth. I ended up stitching down the collar from shoulder seam to shoulder seam to make it sit properly.

However, I don't like the shape on me. It has no waist definition and I don't think the front drapes as nice as a basic waterfall front cardigan, it looks kind of bunchy where the darts release. The proportions are a bit off too, It needs to be a fair bit shorter I think, but then I would have to cut the pockets in half so this was as short as I could hem it. It was well drafted and sewed up really quick but I can't see myself making another one.


  1. And here I was just thinking it looks really cozy and comfy, and that the back is really fitted and flattering! I get it though; sometimes things just bother me, and that's all I can think about when I wear it. Pretty color, though!

  2. Looks good on you - I have seen these styled with a contrasting wide belt around the middle, over the top, still with the front separated. This might be enough to shorten it for you!!! The line details do look very stylish...J

  3. I think you're right about the proportions -- it just doesn't look right on you. The back is good--the narrowing vee shape toward the hem is very slimming-- but there's something about the way the front hangs that looks droopy, and I think there's something a little awkward about the sleeve length. My proportions are similar to yours, and I've looked at that pattern too, and had enough doubts to leave it alone.

    Have you tried overlapping and fastening it a few inches below bust level? The pattern drawings show it overlapped. It looks like that might pick it up? It's a gorgeous color on you, so it's worth salvaging.

    Keep up the great work!

    1. I did try fastening it with a hook and loop but it still didn't sit right. I think its definitely the proportions, the waterfall cardies that I wear are cut a lot higher (the back and sides are at my waist) whereas this one hits me at my widest point on my hips and flares even wider at the hem.

      Ah well, you can't win them all! And I nabbed a heap of this ponte at the last Lincraft sale so its not a major loss!

  4. You gave it your best shot! Such a pretty fabric, glad you have more. Conceptually it really is a pretty jacket, but you're right, it doesn't fit you well for the reasons you noted. And that is a funky collar!

  5. Aw, sorry that it didn't turn out. Looks super cozy though, and it's such a pretty colour (you really do rock vibrant blue well). Could be a cozy lounging sweater for those cooler days around home!

  6. Do you have another cardigan/jacket pattern that you could use for a second front? That back is really good--I'm thinking of buying the pattern just for that. At the very least use the back pattern for something else!

  7. I have this jacket cut out and ready to sew. I'm not sure the front tucks are going to work on me. I'm crazy about the back. Thanks for sharing this. The sizing issue is probably because you used a knit for a pattern sized for woven fabric.