Thursday, October 3, 2013

Lolita Patterns 3013: Sugar Plum









I was lucky enough to pattern test this dress and I gotta say, I love it! I've always admired this type of dress that looks like a skirt/blouse combo but could never find a RTW one that fit and always imagined that fitting one would be a nightmare. This came together really easily though and I had to make minimal fit adjustments. Lolita Patterns have a different sloper for the larger sizes rather than just grading up a small size and it really does make a difference.

I made a Sz18 with the waist graded into a sz16. I still had to do a 1"FBA and I added 1" to the back width but the shoulders fit perfectly and I think if you were a D cup (I'm an F), the bust would have been perfect. I rotated most of the fba into a side dart and the rest into the under bust pleat. The underbust pleat was giving me grief when I first did it, I had it pressed towards the side and as soon as I pressed it the other way towards the front it sat beautifully!

I found the sleeves nice and generous without being too puffy or sticking out and for once I didn't need to do a bicep width adjustment!

 I used a nice Japanese cotton Lawn from Spotlight for the blouse and a Ponte knit from my stash for the skirt. I never wear woven tops so I was pleasantly surprised at how comfy they can be, not as much movement as a knit but not too bad all in all.
 
  
I did do a couple of design changes, I just can't seem to help myself! There's meant to be a zip in the back but I found when I muslined it up that I could just pull it on and off so I left the zip out. The skirt has in seam pockets too but they gaped a bit so I decided to leave them off too.
The original neckline is a high one so I changed it to more of a V-neck which I find more comfortable. Finally, the blouse is meant to be lined but my cotton lawn was thick enough it didn't need to be lined so I made some self fabric bias binding and finished it around the neckline and sleeves with that and just serged the rest of the seams.

It's such a pretty dress with the neck ruffles, I finished them with a rolled hem on my serger. First time I've done that and I am so impressed with how it looks! The buttons have been sitting in my stash for a couple of years and it was so nice to finally use them!

I'm really impressed with the dress, the fit and the construction/instructions was very nice, what I'd class as a higher-end rtw finish which is what I always strive to achieve. I can't wait to see what Lolita patterns comes out with next!

16 comments:

  1. I love everything about this. Wonderful work and choices!

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  2. Suzy, you look so pretty in this dress. Love the colours and print.

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  3. Suzy this is beautiful! I love the fabric choices as well as all the changes you made, especially at the neckline and with the rolled hem. You are *rocking* it too, so pretty! I've been looking forward to seeing how these patterns do with their different blocks and I'm happy to hear that it was so successful for you. :)

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  4. I so thought this was a 2 piece outfit - it looks fab on you! The little details are great ... J

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  5. That is so pretty - Love it. Especially the frill around the neckline. Very very nice indeed.

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  6. Really pretty dress. I thought it was a skirt and blouse at first glance. Your changes to the neckline look lovely. Very flattering on you.

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  7. This really does look great! I never guessed it was a dress!

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  8. Beautiful! I also pattern tested but wasn't thrilled about how the high neckline looked on me. Hope you don't mind if I follow in your lead and turn it into a V ;)

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  9. Great fabric choices and a very cute dress. Love the ruffles

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  10. This pattern seems to be poppy up all over the place and looks great on everyone... you're totally rockin it! I haven't bought myself a pattern for ages and I think when we get back from holidays I might just have to give this one a try. Thanks for sharing all the pics and your review :)

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    1. I couldn't help myself that pattern just landed in my shopping cart lol. I ordered the paper pattern so it will hopefully have arrived when we get back from our holiday back home to the Gold Coast. Getting a little excited as we fly out tonight :)

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  11. This is amazing on you! Love your fabric choices too!

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  12. I've always loved the shirt/skirt dress combo too! It really looks fabulous and so very flattering on you, and I'm loving the ruffles and that japanese cotton... chrysanthemums? Or Dahlias? Very pretty either way :) And no worries about the shirt coming untucked from the skirt! ;)

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  13. Lovely Job!! I'll have to check it out!!

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  14. Beautiful! When you have a minute, could you do a tutorial on how you did the neckline. It's just the perfect touch!

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