Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Adventures in fitting: Bodice block






I get issues of Threads on my iPad (so much easier and cheaper than buying the paper copies) and the latest issue has about drafting a bodice block. I've been thinking about drafting one for a while ever since I got my pants block so I thought I'd give it a go.
It was easier than I thought, I did originally get my husband to help measure but ended up doing most of the measurements myself (so even if you don't have a fitting buddy you can do it yourself). It worked like magic, the fit straight from the paper fit really well, I kind of feel like if you could draft a couple of hundred years ago you would have been burned as a witch (but only if you weighed as much as a duck*)
I did do a 1" FBA and turned it into shoulder princess seams (the article showed how to) then on the actual muslin I did a sway back adjustment of 1" plus a sloping shoulder adjustment.
A couple of tips if anyone wants to do one;
  • Stay stitch around the neckline and armholes before fitting, I didn't and it stretched out a fair bit before I realised it, with taking it on and off so many times (which is why the neckline and armholes are a bit gapey)
  • There's a few articles online about how to draft your own if you don't get Threads. One good one I've seen recommended is this one by Madalynne
  • Thread a long piece of string through the zipper to make it so much easier to take on and off.
  • Taking photos really helps with fitting the back.
I can still see a couple things that might need tweaking (mostly the armhole shape at the back, but if you can notice anything else please let me know!) but otherwise I'm really happy with the fit and I've now put it on my dressform and stuffed it with wadding to give it a more accurate shape.


I haven't mentioned about my sewing room for a while but my Christmas present from the hubbie was built in shelving on one wall. I love it! Everything is up off the floor and all in one place but I'm kind of shocked at how much stuff I have so the next couple of months I'm sewing from the stash to try and reduce it before the Melbourne shopping day in February!
  




*Sorry any excuse for a Monty Python and the Holy Grail quote, lol!

26 comments:

  1. You have done some great work on your bodice block. Having a pants block and a bodice block - there will be no stopping you.

    I have sewing room envy.

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  2. This is on my 'to-do' list for this year! Only today over my morning cuppa I was hunting around and found this site...

    http://www.madalynne.com/how-to-draft-a-front-bodice-sloper-update

    But seeing that yours actually worked I might follow your one instead...

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    1. Thanks Judith! I think either Madalynnes blog post or the Threads article should work really well, and if nothing else I've already found it really handy to have a custom dressform cover!

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  3. Yeah, having a good fitting slower is so helpful.. Looking good already... If u transfer to flat pattern, that's what I use after...

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    1. Thanks! I can't wait to read your posts on how you use your block/sloper

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  4. Wow- this is really showing me that I need to do this- I have alot of the same issues as you have already concquered- thanks for this!

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  5. Good job! I am impressed! Congratulations!

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  6. Your block is perfect and your sewing room is such a sunny welcoming place.

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    1. Thanks Bunny, its actually nicer and sunnier out in the sewing room (which is in our back shed) than in our house!

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  7. Congratulations! Your success and tips show that I need to do this, too.

    I love your sewing room. Those are some really nice shelves.

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    1. Thankyou! Its so nice to get everything up off the floor into the shelving, makes the room look so much bigger

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  8. Great block! It turned out superbly, and the back armhole issue is only small, and easy to remedy. I usually have the same issue too.

    Your sewing room is fantastic!! So roomy and bright. And a TV and sofa!!! I'm envious! ;)

    It's funny how many of us are at the same stage with respect to developing blocks. I just bought "Pattern Making" by Dennic Chunman Lo and "The Little Black Dress" by Simon Henry. Both do blocks but in different ways. There's another good book that combines both techniques, "Patternmaking in Practice: A Step by Step Guide" by Lucia Mors de Castro.

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    1. I'll keep an eye out for those books, I picked an old one up from a second hand store a while but its a pretty basic one and I'd love to read more about drafting.

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  9. This is an awesome idea- I'll have to grab Threads! And may I say your sewing room is looking sasstastic! Looking forward to the fabric shopping catch up!

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    1. Can't wait for the fabric shopping day and getting to meet everyone! Not far away now!

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  10. Thank you so much for this timely link! I downloaded the issue this morning, and spent a happy day of measuring and drafting... and I think I finally got something reasonable! It was a really interesting project! Your princess seams fit perfectly - Do you have any plans for what you'll draft from your block first?

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    1. It works surprising well doesn't it! I did just use the block on a jacket pattern but it wasn't as easy to translate across as I thought, still got to practise more I think! I have got an old drafting book that has how to use the block, and it has a nice little bolero jacket pattern that I'd like to have a go at!

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  11. Wow, I am so jealous of your sewing room, it looks so organized. And congratulations on making your bodice block.

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    1. Its funny, my house is usually in some state of mess but it drives me nuts if my sewing room is messy! I think my poor hubbie wishes it was the other way around, lol!

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  12. I'm impressed with your fit and drafting and of course, your sewing room! No wonder you can create such fabulous clothes with that space to inspired you.

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    1. Thankyou, its a nice escape from the house and kids!

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  13. Ugh, staystitching - my nemisis!! I ALWAYS forget, then by the time I realise, alas, it is too late. This is exactly what I want to do too - create that block, then impale it on a dressmakers form and stuff it within an inch of its life. It's gotta be a good thing, surely!

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    1. Same here, I always forget the stay stitching until I notice its stretched out!!
      Having a proper sized dress form has been great already, so much easier to pin on and to quickly check fit on!

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