Simplicity 1783: pants

 

They may be boring, basic and black but I live in cropped pants at work over spring/summer. So while I had this pattern out for the denim skirt I thought I'd make up the pants too.

Not much to say, I've made these a couple of times before (1 and 2).

Pattern details;
Size 18
Pull-on waistband
Added pockets to the front and back.
Took the legs in for a more fitted look.
Added cuffs with a side split as I ran out of fabric and the legs were too short. Used this tutorial for the side splits

Fabric Details;
Bengalene from Spotlight

Ginger Jeans: Pull-on version

I've been loving all the ginger jean variations and really liked Gillian's article about turning them into pull on jeans with an elastic waistband.

Same adjustments as last time.

I used bengaline from Spotlight and sewed them up the same as normal, the bengaline doesn't actually have as much stretch as my last denim pair so I let the side seams out through the thighs and hips. I'd taken out a side seam wedge last time too and it was a bit much so the pants feel a little twisted, I'm halving it for next time.

In Gillians tutorial she says to add extra length so the waistband hits at the natural waist. Really take notice of this because I didn't originally and they looked like wrinkle city. Once I unpicked it and added a new waistband with an extra 2" in height they are not trying to creep upwards anymore and are sitting a lot better!

I added rivets in an attempt to look more jeany (is that even a word?)

I really like them with my Simplicity 2446 blazer (and its how I'd normally wear them)

They were a fun experiment, I'd definitely make more but I'd double check the stretch next time and add some fitting allowance because these are a tad tight!

McCalls 6707: Tuxedo capri's



I always seem to need cropped work pants for warmer days, it seems to be a staple I am always sewing! I got this pattern at the last big Spotlight sale, its one of the fashion star patterns (I haven't watched that show I have to admit). I've had a mixed run with the fashion star patterns but I can class this one as a win.

 

Pattern Details:

View A
Size 22
Dropped front rise 2"
Raised rear 1"
Changed the waistband to a folded over band
Added 2" to the calf as a hyperextended calf adjustment.






On that last adjustment - I made my first pair which fit fine through the waist/hips but my calves were pulling the side seams backwards terribly. I did a hyperextended calf adjustment like Cation Design showed here to fix it.

 

The first pair I also did a proper zipper fly and button like the pattern directs you to, but the benglene I used was so stretchy I could pull them on without using the zipper so the final pair I left off the fly and just did a basic pull on waistband.

 

The main fabric is a pinstriped bengaline from Darn Cheap fabrics in Melbourne and the black is either from Spotlight or Lincraft (I tend to stockpile it when its on sale).

I haven't made a tuxedo style pant before and its pretty easy, I did think about changing the front pockets as a slant pocket always gapes on me but left them alone as they do seem to suit the style of the pant.

This seems to be a pretty good pattern - everything fit together fine and I made less adjustments than usual which is always good!

Simplicity 1783 - Pants

 

We have been having a heatwave lately, had the hottest day on record a couple of weeks ago. I've never been so thankful to work in an airconditioned office! But it means I need more hot weather pants to wear.

Its funny how sometimes we find a TNT early on and don't appreciate it until we try different patterns! I actually muslined up the StyleArc Tori pant first but found the fit on the legs was terrible on me, my legs must curve in a lot and the Tori pant curves out so they got chucked and out came this pattern again.

Same as last time, I cut about a sz 24 adjusted with my pants block and the fabric is bengaline from Lincraft. I got rid of the waistband and instead used a fold over waistband. They fit really well and are so comfy to wear!

I added pockets on but since I'd raised the back height they are way too low, I used steam a seam before I topstitched though so those suckers are staying put! I've changed the pattern for next time to raise them buy a couple of inches.

I got a bit happy with the iron too and you can see press marks, they should disappear after a wash or two (hopefully)

Style Arc: Sailor Sue Palazzo pants

 

I'm really liking pull-on pants at the moment, they are just so comfy to wear at work. These are meant  to be made in a knit but since I'm still stash busting I used some bengaline I had leftover.

These are a sz20 with width added to the inner leg seams and I added on a waistband. Not sure if they look better with the waistband but I like the extra thickness around my hips.

 

I'm counting these as a wearable muslin, I had to adjust the front crotch length more than usual. The pic on the left is my usual adjustments and on the right after I took out a 2cm wedge at the centre, grading out to nothing at the side seams.

The waistband needs to be a bit tighter, its slightly too loose and I'd like to add some patch pockets to the front too. I have some nice black bengaline in line for the next pair, I reckon they'd be really nice in a ponte as well.

I really like these, the shape of the leg is wide without being shapeless and I feel like it balances me out a lot more than a tighter straight cut leg like the Wendy pant.

Vogue 8751

You might be getting a bit of deja vu with these pants. I made this pattern originally with this exact material and wasn't happy with the fit or the inseam pockets. In a bit of a crankypants mood I ended up unpicking them, resewing them into capris and have never worn them since.....

I keep on calling them my Prodigy pants because they remind me of the ones that Keith use to wear back in the late 1990's

(Source)

I did the same adjustments as last time But this has to be the stretchiest bengaline I've ever worked with. I took in the side seams by 1" on either side and really should have taken 1/2" to 1" from the very top of the pants so the waistband would sit lower as I'm getting bunching under the back waistband and at the front crotch which is just from excess fabric. But I'm feeling pretty damn lazy lately so it will probably just stay like that!



The main fabric is a Bengaline from Lincraft and I used a Pink Sateen for the waistband facing, fly and pocket lining.


I'm not sure if I've ever mentioned the fly tutorial I use?It's Debbie Cook's jean's fly tutorial and its bloody fantastic! It always turns out perfect and neat.


And in honour of Anzac Day today;

They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning,
We will remember them.

Lest we forget

Vogue 8751 V2.0

So Vogue 8751, we meet again. After the last attempt I did a bit of reading up and found Colette Patterns Pants fitting cheatsheet
So I ended up doing a 2" full butt adjustment and a 1" flat tummy adjustment. Plus I got rid of the side seam pockets and drafted my own. I found with my Bella Jeans that if the pockets are straight across they don't gape

I ended up using Cotton Sateen for the pockets and waistband facing as I ran out of the Bengaline, I added a zipper facing just to neaten it up.

Plus I thought I'd add a pocket stay to help with any potential pocket gape, lots easier to draw up than I thought, and I like how it keeps the pockets in place.

All in all I'm really happy with them and I know I'll be sewing them again!

Bengaline Pants

Last year I had a wedding to go to and I wanted to wear black pants. I went to all the local shops and the only pair I found that fit and looked ok cost me $100 and were still too short, even after I dropped the hem as low as it would go. That was when I decided to start sewing, at least then I could make things to fit!
The pants I bought were made out of Bengaline and had a very high waist that could be left up or folded down, like a yoga pant. No zippers.
These are my copies, they are so comfy and fit beautifully, I'm really happy with them, and I can whip a pair up in an hour or two which is even better!

Waist left up


Waist folded down


I have some nice grey bengaline to make up into another pair - Spotlight has a $5m suiting sale so I went a little bit crazy and got a ton of suiting for more pants!