Closet Case Files: Zippered Ginger Jeans

I got the email through about Papercut's new patterns the other day and I loved the new pair of jeans they have released. I was thinking all day about downloading them and how I could adjust them using my Ginger jeans pattern so they would fit and end up being a pair of Ginger jeans with front zippers.......then I mentally slapped myself and hacked up my Ginger pattern instead!

I think of these as a homage to that Papercut pattern and also a pair of Just Jeans that I saw in the shops recently. According to the daughter, jeans with zipper pockets are 'in' right now (oh god I feel old!)

Adjustments;
Sz 18
Added 1" to inner leg seam on front pattern
Added a pocket stay
Hyperextended calf adjustment
Changed the shape of the front and back pockets
Slimmed the calf from the knee down.

My zippers work, but they don't actually go to a pocket, I did think about making them fully functional but realised I wouldn't use them so didn't bother.

The pockets are inspired by a pocket design I saw on google and saved, I think they were true religion jeans.

Denim is from Lincraft, its a lighter weight denim with a lot of stretch which I like using for this pattern. Its a strange colour - almost a blue/grey.
Top stitching is with Guttermann upholstery thread no.38

Damn, I love this pattern! I've used it so many times I had to trace off a new one this time!

Closet Case Files: Distressed Ginger Jean shorts

I love sewing my own jeans and I love how much better they fit than rtw, but geez I wish there were more denim options than plain dark denim. So what do you do when you want a pair of light denim or distressed jeans? You play with bleach/sandpaper/scissors!

I made a couple of samples;

Bleach;

Sandblasting (which made no real difference, I used my husbands sandblaster but he has a very fine sand in it so I imagine a coarser sand would work better?);

Sandpaper and bleach;

The pattern is my TNT Ginger Jeans, shortened into above knee shorts. Same adjustments as usual (sz 18, added to inner leg 1", wedge taken from outer leg and extended calf adjustment plus I added a pull on waistband like my last pair)

To get the distressing I did some sandpapering before topstitching, then put the shorts on and marked with chalk the common wear areas. I made a half and half solution of bleach and water in a spray bottle, which I sprayed onto a rag and scrubbed into the fabric (gives a lot more control than just spraying straight onto the fabric). I did it about 5 times, giving it 10-15mins between each application, only dampening the fabric with the bleach solution not saturating it. When I was happy with it I washed them with some vinegar (meant to help stabilise the bleach?) and dried them.

My daughter tells me I did the distressing too low and I agree with her - the fade should have started further up.

I did the cuts with a pair of scissors and tweezers. I wasn't too sure about it to begin with but I'm liking it the more I wear them.

It was a fun project, I wouldn't use the sandpaper again, I don't like the damage it does to the fabric and I doubt I'd do the cuts again either. But I really like how the bleaching went and I'd definitely use that again.

Ginger Jeans: Pull-on version

I've been loving all the ginger jean variations and really liked Gillian's article about turning them into pull on jeans with an elastic waistband.

Same adjustments as last time.

I used bengaline from Spotlight and sewed them up the same as normal, the bengaline doesn't actually have as much stretch as my last denim pair so I let the side seams out through the thighs and hips. I'd taken out a side seam wedge last time too and it was a bit much so the pants feel a little twisted, I'm halving it for next time.

In Gillians tutorial she says to add extra length so the waistband hits at the natural waist. Really take notice of this because I didn't originally and they looked like wrinkle city. Once I unpicked it and added a new waistband with an extra 2" in height they are not trying to creep upwards anymore and are sitting a lot better!

I added rivets in an attempt to look more jeany (is that even a word?)

I really like them with my Simplicity 2446 blazer (and its how I'd normally wear them)

They were a fun experiment, I'd definitely make more but I'd double check the stretch next time and add some fitting allowance because these are a tad tight!

Closet Case Files: Ginger Shorts

 

Ginger shorts (jorts?). My daughter has a pair of piping hot shorts that has some design features that I wanted to copy, they have bright pink serging that's exposed with the cuff turned up plus a bright pink topstitched back pockets. I tried to get the same feel with these shorts but I don't think I went quite far enough and the single topstitched back pocket just looks odd to me now.

 

Nothing new fit wise (same as the last pair of jeans, I did notice excess on the side of my leg that didn't show up in my jeans so I've adjusted the pattern for next time.

 

The fabric was a remnant scrap from a garage sale, just managed to squeeze the shorts out of it and the pocket bags are a quilting cotton from my stash.

 



Closet Case Files: Ginger Jeans - purple denim

Another pair of jeans, I've been wearing my first pair heaps lately.

 

Same as last time;

• Added 1" to the inner leg seam on the front pattern piece.
• Adjusted the side seams - I have hyperextended calves and they were dragging the side seam backwards so I added to the back and took from the front to straighten it up.
• Changed the front pockets to a pocket stay.
• Shaped the side seams
• I did a couple of construction changes - I followed my fav zipper tutorial and serged the waistband facing instead of turning under (just helps to reduce bulk with a heavier weight denim).
• Shaped the waistband to be more curved to stop the gape at the back.
• Also I added elastic to the waistband to help stabilise/stop stretching out.
• Took in the side seams as my purple denim was very stretchy
• Plus I took length out of the legs at the knees from where I had originally added it and I also took some height out of the back rise, again from where I had added it.

I used a purple denim (its either from Rathdowne or GJ's discount fabrics). Its a lot thinner than my first pair and has some good stretch in it.

 

Topstitching is Gutermann and a matching plain poly thread for the bartacks. I'm definitely more of a fan of the upholstery thread for jeans topstitching, my machine doesn't really like how thick the topstitching thread is and I found it harder to keep an even line with it.

I added a pocket stay - its a quilting cotton that I had in my stash

Not much else to say except I've already cut out my third pair ready to be sewn!

 

Pattern testing - Closet Case Files: Ginger Jeans

I was lucky enough to pattern test these, I know there was a bit of controversy over pattern testing and bloggers always saying nice things about the new pattern but I can honestly say I love these jeans!

I've always stuck to wide leg jeans, they were the only type that would ever fit over my thighs and I had a couple of horrible change room experiences that cemented the no-skinny jean rule firmly in my mind! This is why I love to pattern test though - it pushes me way out of my comfort zone and into clothes I might not normally sew or wear. This is my first ever pair of stovepipe/skinny leg jeans and I am a convert!

So the pattern: These are View A with the stovepipe leg. I made a size 18 (the test pattern was pretty generous - by my measurements I should be a sz20. This has been corrected on the finished pattern though). I muslined them up in cheap denim first and made a few adjustments;

• Added 1" to the inner leg seam on the front pattern piece.
• Added 1" length at the knee
• Added 1" to the centre back height (this is a bit much though and I'll be halving it next time)
• Adjusted the side seams - I have hyperextended calves and they were dragging the side seam backwards so I added to the back and took from the front to straighten it up.
• Changed the front pockets to a pocket stay.
• Shaped the side seams - my muslin was in a thin denim and the legs draped fine, this denim is a lot thicker and just looked bunchy so I shaped it to fit my lower thighs and knee area.
• I did a couple of construction changes - I followed my fav zipper tutorial and serged the waistband facing instead of turning under (just helps to reduce bulk with a heavier weight denim).
• Shaped the waistband to be more curved to stop the gape at the back.
• Also I added elastic to the waistband to help stabilise/stop stretching out.

I'm really impressed with the pattern - I've sewn a few different jeans patterns now and these are the least adjusted pair so far. They are generous through the thigh and butt area and are a higher rise at the back to the front which I always look for.

The instructions are written towards someone who hasn't sewn jeans before plus there is an upcoming sewalong to follow as well. I had trouble with the original zipper instructions but I've just read the final pattern instructions and I can recommend them now, they are very similar to how I do my zipper install and nice and simple to follow.

I totally ran out of ideas to top stitch the back pockets so just left them plain, I did stitch one of my labels to the corner for something different.

All the top stitching is with upholstery thread and the bar tacks in the same colour normal thread.

Now all I can think about is more pairs of jeans! I have a nice thin purple denim that would be great in this pattern and could be rolled up to be capri length in summer and my daughter has a pair of shorts that are serged in hot pink thread and then cuffed so you can see the serging which I want to copy as well!