McCalls 7199: Drape jacket

I am a sucker for a drapy knit cardi and McCalls really do seem to do the best ones. The sizing is pretty predictable though, I always have to size down a few sizes (I think I'm a 20 or a 22 on the size chart and I made a sz16 here), the arms are always too short and way too tight. There's something a little funky going on at the back of the armhole, I want to wash it a few times though and see if its the fabric being a bit stiff or if I need to trim some off next time.

Adjustments;

• Size 16
• 2" FBA
• 3" bicep width
• 1" to arm length
• 1" to armscye height
• 1" back width
• 1" to hips

I like the seam lines on the back especially and I really want to make a contrasting version eventually.

I read in the only review on patternreview that the weight of the facings dragged the top forward when wearing so I decided to leave the facings out and left the front edge unhemmed. This meant I stitched the back neck seam the other way from the instructions so the seam would be hidden

The fabric is a purple/grey ponte knit from Spotlight

I wore this to work this week and its one of those tops that looks so much nicer when you are moving around instead of standing still, it has great drape and I love the seam lines. I thought about making it look more fitted by taking it in at the back by adding a centre backs seam but I have been way over-fitting my clothes lately and need to just take a chill-pill and relax so I left it long and swingy.

McCalls 6754: knit dress

Time to battle my arch nemesis again - raglan sleeves! I've had this dress sitting on my wadder shelf for a few months, I had this idea that I could make a knit pattern out of sateen and I just couldn't get the fit right (no big surprises there...). A lot of the fit problems disappeared once I made it in a knit......


Pattern details:
I made view D, the full skirted dress with sleeves.
Sz XL
1" FBA
1.5" added to the sleeve cap length
Added 3" to the skirt length
Added 2" to sleeve length
Added 3" wide waistband
Added inseam pockets





I need to the some length out the back next time, looking at these photos I have some excess there.

The fabric is a medium weight cotton knit, its pretty stiff but is surprisingly nice in a dress. I added the neckline binding instead of turning and topstitching.

So raglan sleeves, I have come to the conclusion that raglan sleeves will have draglines but there is a difference between normal lines and uncomfortable lumps of fabric. Happily for me, adding the sleeve cap length gets rid of a lot of the excess fabric and makes them a lot more comfortable plus gives me more movement so I can live with a few lines.

I haven't been able to find any real advice in adding to a raglan sleeve cap length and have just been adding height across the arm pattern piece and dropping the underarm seam to allow for the extra sleeve cap height, if anyone can refer me to a book/source or give me some information it would be great!

I found the skirt really short, I've added 3" to the length and I still had to add the waistband to drop it lower. I'm glad I added the waistband though, I really like the look with this dress and I'll be doing it again!

I actually like this more than the lady skater dress, a princess seam bodice is always going to fit better on me and I like that the skirt is full without being a circle skirt (its roughly about a 3/4 circle skirt). Plus with the added length to the skirt and arms I can wear it to work and what's not good about wearing what is essentially pyjamas to work all day!

McCalls 6953: Knit and Voile maxi dress

 

I've been a bit obsessed with mixed fabric dresses lately, I love a knit bodice and a woven skirt, seems the best of both worlds!

Pattern detailsn (same as last time I made this dress);

• sz20 with d cup
• 1" fba
• 1" wedge from back neck alongside of the zipper
• 2" petite bodice
• 1" wedge out of bustline length
• lowered neckline
• added waistband
• added pockets from Simplicity 2588

There were a couple added adjustments since the bodice is a knit;

• Took in the sides by a total of 4"
• Took out length in the bodice of about 2"
• Cut the back on the fold
• Gathered the skirt instead of pleating it so I could make the dress a pull-on.
• Bound the neckline instead of lining the dress.
• Added a 4" facing to the hem to help weigh it down

I do need to take some length out of the upper chest as its buckling slightly. It looks like the princess seams are ripply too but in real life they sit flat.

Fabric:
Cotton spandex knit for the bodice from Spotlight and a cotton voile for the skirt that was left over from my Cambie dress

I'm happy with how it turned out and I'll be making more mixed fabric dresses soon!

McCalls 6707: Tuxedo capri's



I always seem to need cropped work pants for warmer days, it seems to be a staple I am always sewing! I got this pattern at the last big Spotlight sale, its one of the fashion star patterns (I haven't watched that show I have to admit). I've had a mixed run with the fashion star patterns but I can class this one as a win.

 

Pattern Details:

View A
Size 22
Dropped front rise 2"
Raised rear 1"
Changed the waistband to a folded over band
Added 2" to the calf as a hyperextended calf adjustment.






On that last adjustment - I made my first pair which fit fine through the waist/hips but my calves were pulling the side seams backwards terribly. I did a hyperextended calf adjustment like Cation Design showed here to fix it.

 

The first pair I also did a proper zipper fly and button like the pattern directs you to, but the benglene I used was so stretchy I could pull them on without using the zipper so the final pair I left off the fly and just did a basic pull on waistband.

 

The main fabric is a pinstriped bengaline from Darn Cheap fabrics in Melbourne and the black is either from Spotlight or Lincraft (I tend to stockpile it when its on sale).

I haven't made a tuxedo style pant before and its pretty easy, I did think about changing the front pockets as a slant pocket always gapes on me but left them alone as they do seem to suit the style of the pant.

This seems to be a pretty good pattern - everything fit together fine and I made less adjustments than usual which is always good!

McCalls 6953: Rayon maxi dress

 

I think this summer's uniform is going to be the maxi skirt for me! I've been wearing my Gabriola skirt heaps lately so it just seemed natural to make a maxi dress as well.

This pattern has a few variations, I made Amber the hi-lo hem version and this is View D with the maxi skirt.

So the adjustments;

• sz20 with d cup
• 1" fba
• 1" wedge from back neck alongside of the zipper
• 2" petite bodice
• 1" wedge out of bustline length
• shirring panel on side
• lowered neckline
• added waistband
• added pockets from Simplicity 2588

I'm not overly happy with the bodice, it took 1 tissue fitting and 2 muslins and I'm still not completely happy.

Every time I try one of these cup size patterns I end up adjusting the fit more than if I'd started with a basic B cup bodice. This time I started with a d-cup bodice and had to do a 1" fba on the first muslin then had to take a big wedge out of length on the second - its like I need the width but not the length I'm finding - I really should add to the side seams which would let me do a smaller fba and also allow for an easier sleeve adjustment each time.

I had to take a wedge out the back neckline along the zipper as it was gaping, same as I had to on Amber's dress. This is not a common adjustment for me so I tend to think its more of a fault on the pattern.

Fabric is a rayon from the clearance table at spotlight - its a nice weighty rayon. I used a cotton poplin for the lining and a cotton sateen for the waistband. The photo below is more true to the colour.

The dress isn't designed with the waistband but I found it was just too much pattern without it, this fabric really needed a break.

I think the next maxi dress I make will be a frankenpattern of this skirt with the bodice of Vogue 8648, I just need to find some more decent rayon!

McCalls 6953: Chiffon dress

 

Ambers been wanting a chiffon high-low dress for awhile. I downloaded Lekala 4262 and made a muslin but she didn't like the hem line or the elastic waist. Luckily I had gotten this pattern with my haul from the last Spotlight $5 sale. It still has the high-low hem but has a nice fitted bodice.

Pattern details;

• This is View C without the hem band (She's 5'4".
• Sz 14 B-cup with the sides taken in by 1/4".
• Petite bodice 2"
• Swayback adjustment 1/2"
• Changed pleated skirt to gathers
• Took a wedge out at the top of centre back because the neckline was gaping.
• Added a skirt lining.

 

Fabric is a poly chiffon from Spotlight. I underlined the bodice with cotton poplin and also lined the bodice in the cotton poplin. The skirt lining is a poly lining fabric from my stash.

I wanted a free hanging chiffon overlay which I spent ages thinking about. In the end it was pretty simple, it's pretty much the same as the Sewaholic Saltspring dress but opposite sides up. Amber wants another dress similar to this so I'll take some pics and make a tutorial (mostly so I can refer back to it!)

Chiffon overlay hangs free with the top edges of the hem finished

You can access the zipper through the slit



When the dress is zipped up you cant see the slit or zipper in the skirt

I did a rolled hem on the overlocker to the skirt and lining, French seamed the chiffon skirt and used a normal zipper instead of an invisible one, the dress has a bit of bulk at the back and I never really trust an invisible one when the seams a bit bulky plus I'm trying to use my stash and its what I had!

I haven't really sewn with chiffon before but with the underlined bodice the dress has a nice bit of weight to it, the skirts a little bit short, I think having the long hem at the back seems to exaggerate how short the front it so I've added another couple of inches to the length at the front for next time.

 

 

In summary, I'm really happy with this pattern, we have another dress planned for Amber and I'd like a maxi rayon version for me!

McCalls 6992: Fox jumper

 

Inspired by Rachels great jumper my daughter wanted a similar one made, so we came up with this one.

The fabrics are from Spotlight. I'm not overly happy with the quality of the fox fleece, its faded out after prewashing and has some spots where its missing colour, not big enough to worry about but for a so called premium fleece who's full price is $16.99pm its pretty crappy.

Size wise - Its a sz 14, with the arms lengthened by 1" and the body shortened by 2" plus a swayback adjustment of 1" (she's about 5'4"). 5/8" FBA which was eased into the side seams. Otherwise its straight from the pattern and its fits her really well.

I overlocked all the seams and then topstitched the bindings down.

I asked her if this was her Fonzie pose and got asked who's that...sigh, I'm feeling old!

 

Not much more to say, its a good basic pattern and I'd recommend it.