Sewaholic 1401: Gabriola Skirt

I've had this pattern since it came out but seeing Julia Bobbins gorgeous skirt made me get it out and get started!
After making the vogue 1247 skirt I really like a straight waistband on me, it makes the skirt hang better and doesn't give the fitting nightmares that I've had on skirts before. All this is missing is some pockets, with all those seam lines on the yoke its crying out for a hidden pocket or two....next time!

Size wise: I used the size 16 and graded up at the waist to about a sz 20. I think this has to be the most easiest skirt to fit I've ever made because I made no other adjustments.

The blue fabric is a rayon from Spotlight, I didn't have quite enough (2.5m of 112cm wide) so I made the skirt side panels less flared at the bottom and used a black cotton poplin for the yoke inserts and waistband. I do wish I'd used a more thicker fabric on the yoke and waistband, it does feel a bit flimsy and could do with a bit more heft. Its showing up pretty lurid on my monitor, but its just a nice bright blue in real life.

The waistband called for interfacing but I used elastic instead.

I love how fitted it is at the waist and hips and how swishy it is to wear, it really is a fantastic pattern and I can see a few more makes in my future!

Sewaholic 1202: Cambie Dress

I'm kind of late on the cambie bandwagon, but I finally downloaded it and made it up!

Fabric is from the clearance table at spotlight, its a cotton voile. Lining is a cotton poplin.

Adjustments:

• I started with a sz 16 and changed the front to a princess seam using the bodice from Colette 1020 (which already had a FBA of 1")
• Added a side panel that was shirred (I did this by taking an inch off the side seams on the front and back bodice then made up a shirred panel that measured 2"+seam allowances when it was done), the skirt has enough gathers that I didn't worry about adding any width to it, I just gathered it a bit less.
• Took a wedge out of the back neckline of about 1" tapering down to nothing at the waistline.
• Added 1/2" to the shoulder height.
• Petited the bodice by 1" and took an extra 1/2" out as a swayback adjustment.

I've got some rippling at the princess seams, every time I sew with voile I get this, I think its a combination of the thin fabric and being pulled tight by the shirring. Next time I sew with voile I'll try underlining it and see if that helps.

I'm happy with this, it needs a couple of small tweaks before I sew it again - There is still too much length in the back bodice and it needs more length at the front bodice. I want to add a little more ease to the bodice, probably an inch to the side shirred panel. It's the first time I've used a side shirring panel and it worked pretty good, it changes the construction steps a bit and makes it harder to fit as I sew but means its a dress I'll wear a lot more.

Sewaholic 1403: Yaletown dress

I was lucky enough to pattern test this and I've been wanting to show it off since!

Its the new Sewaholic Yaletown dress and blouse. I made the dress mainly because I had enough fabric but I do want to make the blouse at a later date.

Fabric is a rayon from Darn Cheap Fabrics in Melbourne.

I made a sz16 with a couple of adjustments;

• Graded out to a sz 18 at the bust/waist 
• 1" FBA rotated down into gathers 
• 1" wide back adjustment 
• Took out 3cm of bodice length 
• Shaped the bottom of the bodice (Once I had the bodice sewn I put it on, pinned out the gathers then marked a straight line around)
• For once I didn't have to enlarge the sleeves so they are quite generous in size. 

I love this dress, it has pockets and an elastic waist that's hidden by the belt. I like that the facings are topstitched down so cant flip out and I like the added button at centre front to stop the wrap gaping. It such a pretty spring dress, just need some nice weather to wear it in!

Vogue 8774: Jeans

I've seen some great jeans pop up in the blogging world lately and it reminded me I need another pair! The last pair I made have shrunk in length (even after prewashing the denim twice) and are now in my refashion pile to be cut down into shorts.

The pattern is my TNT -  Sewaholic Thurlow legs onto the waist/hips of Vogue 8774 adjusted with my pants block. I added 1.5cm to the front inner leg with this pair as the last version had some pulling at the front.

This denim is from Spotlight tagged as Bradmill denim. Surprisingly nice, firm but still with some stretch. I bought a craftsy class back at Christmas called Sewing Designer Jeans. I highly recommend it, Angela Wolf is great in the videos and I found it really interesting about how to distress denim. I'm not sure how successful I was at it, the denim went a different colour blue instead of fading it out but I'm hoping the look will soften after a few washes. I don't think I took it quite far enough sanding it but I was worried about wearing the denim too thin.

Top stitching is with gutterman upholstery thread and the same colour in a plain polyester thread for all of the bar tacks.

The waistband has elastic in it again.

I used a great tip from Lasewist about using tape to as a template for the front fly stitching. Worked an absolute treat and will be doing it everytime I sew jeans from now on.

I made these extra long, I've always loved jeans that are a little bit too long. Comes from years of buying rtw that was too short that too long feels like a luxury.

 



 



Sewaholic 1201: Kitty cat version

 

This jumper makes me so happy! I found this fleece fabric in Spotlight on a day trip to Warrnambool, its been sitting on my sewing desk for a few weeks now while I've been thinking about it. I had ideas of a hoodie or a peacoat but seeing Bobbin and Baste's top helped me simplify and make a basic jumper.

I've made the Renfrew top before but I wanted a lot more ease in this top so its a sz16 at the shoulders and graded out to approximately a 22-24 from the armholes down, plus added an extra 1" to upper arm width and did a 1" FBA which I eased into the side seam.
I made a muslin out of stash fleece and wore it around yesterday and then also added 2" to the length, forward shoulder of 1", lowered the neckline by 1" and dropped the armhole down by 1".

The pocket is a patch pocket traced from a hoodie I have.

I twin-needled the neck band and wristbands.

Insides are all overlocked.

The hem band could be a little tighter, I haven't worked with ribbing before and didn't realise how tight it needs to be sewn on.
I need more jumpers like this, its the perfect weekend top especially with the weather we've been having, plus it has cats on it!

Tutorial: Sewaholic 1302 Tofino Pants Pockets

The first thing my daughter requested when I made her these pants were some pockets. These were quite simple to add on and I thought I'd show how I did it;

Firstly, get the side pattern piece

Then work out where you'd like the top of the pocket to fall, we went with 6" from the top of the pattern piece and how deep you'd like the pockets, ours are 8" deep.

Next, put some tracing paper over the pattern and trace the pocket out, adding 1.5cm seam allowance to the bottom and 1" for a fold over to the top. I sloped the top to add some interest but you don't need to do that. Don't forget to add grain lines and notches to the pocket pattern!

Cut out the pockets, turn over and interface the top 1.5-2" for some added stability to the pocket opening.

Finish the top and bottom of the pocket (I serged it)

Then turn under the seam allowances on the top and bottom and press. Top stitch the top of the pocket.

Line up the pocket using the notches and then baste either side of the pocket and top stitch the bottom of the pocket.

Now continue with the pattern instructions and add your piping.

And finish your pants!

Hope that was clear enough and you enjoy some pockets on your Tofino pants :)