Taffy Blouse: Lace version

I went to the best garage sale the other weekend where I managed to pick up about 3 metres of this pretty lace for a couple bucks! I've been wanting to make a top like this for a while but the last one I tried turned into a wadder - I used a cowl neck top pattern and the underlined lace was too thick to drape nicely so this time I picked the taffy blouse with its nice simple lines

The underlining is a jersey knit and I made my own bias binding (which has rippled, anyone know why? Is it because its too wide or did I stretch it too much/not enough?). I didn't do french seams like it tells you in the instructions because with the layers of lace and knit it would have been too thick so I've just serged all the seams.

I think it turned out quite pretty, I like the flutter sleeves and how the tie can be tied at the back or front.

Colette Sewing Handbook: Truffle Dress

Pattern description: A line dress with a skirt ruffle overlay and a lined bodice

Fabric used; I was a crepe that I was given

Size: I made a 18 with adjustments. I made a 1" FBA then turned it into princess seams and ended up taking about an inch out of the back width. I also added about 2" to the length and scooped out the neckline deeper.

I loved the ruffle across the front of the dress when I first saw it in the book and was originally going to make this up out of a grey gaberdine that I have but after spotting the crepe I thought I'd use that. Well, this fabric had a definate ability to grow as I sewed, even after I stay stitched the neckline. So when I went to insert the lining it didn't match up very well and I still have some rippling down the zipper and on the very top of the princess seams that I'm not very happy with. It's slowly growing on me, straight after I finished it I thought about unpicking it all but I've calmed down a bit now and am starting to really like it!

So anyway, I really liked the construction method of this dress, of course I only read it properly after I'd finished D'oh!! If you follow the instructions (like I will next time!), the final seam you construct is actually the side seams, meaning there is no need for any hand stitching and its a very neat finish.

Now for the good stuff;

I added pockets!

The ruffle is just gorgeous

Piping around the neckline, armholes and waist

What I think is rayon lining (part of my husbands Grandma's stash she gave me, so much fabric!! All beautiful quality but I have no idea what half of it is, lol!)

Invisible zipper

Its a very pretty dress pattern, and I will make it again. There's so many options, it would look so pretty with a chiffon overlay, and I wonder about something like a sateen, it would be stiffer but I could iron it down a bit if it stuck out and maybe a knit - it would be so comfortable in something like a Ponte! Plus the ruffle would be so easy to add to any other dress pattern and I like how versatile it is - you can be worn to the office or just out grocery shopping.

Colette Sewing Handbook: Taffy Blouse V2.0

Ok, second version of the Taffy Blouse - probably the biggest change I made was to use a knit for the main fabric and a chiffon just for the sleeves. I took a good 1" sway back adjustment and dropped the bust dart by an inch, graded in slightly at the waist and out a bit at the hips. I think I could have still taken more out of the lower back as I still have fabric pooling, and I need to readjust the bust dart up slightly, I think using the knit instead of a bias cut fabric changed the way it fits slightly, so I might trace one copy for knits and one for bias fabrics. I find this top a lot more practical and I know I'll wear it a lot more. I might bring the shoulders in slightly on the next version too as it has a tendency to slip around a bit.


I used hem tape for the first time, I couldn't find steam-a-seam that I see used a lot, so I got a cheaper version at Lincraft but it worked great! made stitching the hem and neckline a breeze and no rippling in sight!


I used a rolled hem on the sleeves and bias bound then turned and stitched the neckline, I probably could of got away with just serging and turning under though, but it does look nice and neat.


So I'm very happy, I saw a top nearly identical to this for sale for $59.95 at City Chic (Australian plus size shop) and I reckon I made this for under $3 - I found the knit fabric at the op shop 3m for $2 and the chiffon was on clearance at spotlight for $2 a metre and I barely used 30cm. Bargain!!

Colette Sewing Handbook: Taffy Blouse

Pattern description: Floaty blouse with flutter sleeves and bias bound edges


Size: I made a straight 18


Material used: Polkdot chiffon and a poly/cotton blend for the bias binding.


I did a rolled hem. I'm actually really happy with it, last time I tried it, it was a freaking disaster!


Well this has to be the most succesful time I've had with chiffon, let alone bias cut chiffon! I used a chalk roller to mark out the pattern pieces and really took my time cutting out. I rushed the bias binding a little bit but I don't think its noticable.

I thought the instructions were very clear, and I learned that with a french seamed garment you sew the shoulder seam, sleeves in then the side seams finally. It worked a treat and I ended up with a top that had every seam including the sleeves with a french seam.

The fabric is a bit over the top (I can just never resist polkadots, lol) but I quite like it under a vest like in the top photo, and thats the most likely way I'll wear it. Its very flattering to a curvy girl and the flutter sleeves fit so easily over larger arms. I actually forgot to add the waist ties, but they would have helped with the excess in the lower back. I've already bought the fabric for the next version, lol!

Book Review: Colette Sewing Handbook

Book Index/Chapter headings;

Chapter 1: Getting Started
General basic information like different hand and machine stitches, gathering, darts, installing zippers. I really like the information on using 3 lines of gathering stitches for a more even gather as I've only ever used 2 lines.

Chapter 2: A Thoughtful Plan
Making a sewing plan including dressing for your shape, colours, making a mood board.

Chapter 3: A Precise Pattern
Information on pattern markings, marking out and cutting out.

Pattern: Meringue Skirt

Chapter 4: A Fantastic Fit
Some very basic information on fitting. I'm actually a tiny bit disappointed in this section, I know this isn't a specialised fitting book but I feel that the information is so brief that it's not overly helpful. There's information on how to do the basic alterations but not how to tell if you need that alteration. All in all, if you need help fitting get a good book like Fit For Real People.

Pattern: Pastille Dress

Chapter 5: A Beautiful fabric
Basic information on fabric types.
I like the tip about using a Fabric Stabilizer spray for fabrics such as Chiffon (I've just got to find it for sale here now!)

Pattern: Truffle Dress

Chapter 6: A Fine Finish
Includes making bias tape and different seam finishes and some basic information on lining.

Pattern: Taffy Blouse

Chapter 7: Keep Learning

Pattern: Licorice Dress

A note on the Patterns: As usual the instructions for the patterns are beautifully clear and the illustrations are lovely. Very easy to follow and I love that the book is spiral bound so it lays nice and flat when you are sewing.

Does this book have clear illustrations or photographs? Yes - the whole book is beautifully presented

Would you recommend this book as a MUST HAVE?
Even though this book is aimed towards beginners it tends to just touch on a lot of things and doesn't quite go into enough detail. I really wish she'd been able to include a more comprehensive fitting section, but hopefully its enough to interest a beginner to then get some specialised fitting books.

Having said that though it is a beautifully presented book and I like Sarai's relaxed writing style. The patterns are the main reason I bought the book and I am very happy with them, it's great value if you just work off the patterns themselves (5 patterns at $18 each = $90 value) and I must say that it is the best sewing book I've bought that includes patterns. Its not a craft book it is a proper dressmaking book (no cushions or slipcovers in sight!).

So in summary; Buy it for the patterns and the sheer beauty of the book and photos.