Fehr Trade: Surf to Summit top

I've been looking for a rash vest for summer for myself and haven't managed to find a decent one that fits so I was pretty happy when I saw this pattern.

I like the fact that its got princess seams and the raglan sleeves are great way to colourblock. I did have some issues fitting it, I've always had trouble with raglan sleeves on me and finally worked out that it was from not enough sleeve cap length (thanks to some fitting posts by Mrs Mole).

So even though it took 2 muslins, they were quick to whip up on the serger and I'm glad I know how to adjust it on future raglan tops.

Final version:

• Sz L (I measure as the XL on the chart but wanted a closer fitting top)
• 1" FBA
• Added about 3" to the sleeve cap length in two separate areas - the top was rotated out to form a shoulder dart.
• Lowered the front neckline (this is a personal thing with me, I hate the feel of a high neckline)
• pinned out excess at the side bust/sleeve/waistline.
• Fabric - the aqua is lycra knit from spotlight and the sleeves are an poly knit also from spotlight.

A couple of fitting pics;

Muslin 1 - the sleeve on the left is the standard sleeve and the right is one that I have cut to release, you can see how much lower its sitting. Its also a sz XL and feels a bit big.

Muslin 1

Muslin 2 - Graded back down to a sz L, added 1.5" to the sleeve cap length and rotated it out to a shoulder dart.
It still needs more sleeve cap length so the sleeve on the right has had another 1.5" added to the sleeve cap.
I also pinned out some excess at the waist and side bust/sleeve and transferred it onto the paper pattern.

Muslin 2

Final version - pretty happy, just have to play with the shoulder dart to make it perfect (needs to be a bit longer and angled back about 1/2"). Also needs a swayback adjustment.

I made matching swimsuit bottoms to go with the top, they are just traced from a pair of RTW undies with a fold over band added to the top. These are the second pair, I made the first and then decided I wanted more coverage at the back and a little more room in the hips and the waistband made smaller.

I wore it all out for a swim on the weekend and it was really good, very comfy and the rash vest dries so much quicker than a tshirt and is a lot better in the water.

Fitting pants for the Curvy Sewing Collective

You may have seen a bit of a blogger buzz about a new website called The Curvy Sewing Collective. Its a new website ran by a great group of sewing bloggers with pattern reviews, fitting advice and general sewing and confidence advice, aimed at a plus size body shape.

I've written a few posts for the site now, mostly focussing on fitting and sewing the Fehr Trade Duathlon leggings.

Activewear 101: Patterns and Fabric

Activewear 101: Leggings 1- Fitting

Activewear 101: Leggings 2 - Pattern adjustments

Activewear 101: Leggings 3 - Sewing

The site is skewed towards more curvier sizes but I do think a fitting adjustment is the same no matter what your size. So please check it out and hopefully you might find some of the articles helpful next time you are doing a fitting.

Fehr Trade 103: a duo of duathlons!

My version:

I reprinted out the pattern (properly this time!) and can now tell you that these are a sz XL with 2cm added to the inner leg seam and 2cm taken from the front side seams. I also took a wedge out of the side of these to get rid of some excess fabric that was pooling there and it also helped straighten up the legs.

Not sure whats going on with my face in these, chalk it up to teenage daughter induced stress!

Fabric is a black matt knit (same as last pair) and a digital print ponte from Spotlight.

I changed the waistband on these to a folded over one, I personally find it a lot more comfortable than an elastic one.

Ambers version:

Hers are a sz S graded out to a M at the waist with 1.5cm added to the inner leg seam only at the top (like Sunni talks about here).

I lengthened these to a full length pair for her and basted them together for a fitting, she has extra width at the calf but are very close fitting at the ankle. The side seams do twist around a bit, next version if she wants them full length I'll take a bit off the front and add it to the back around her lower calf area.

This is the second elastic waistband I've sewn onto these (first one was too tight apparently even through I test fitted her, of course now after a run in them she says they are too loose *eyeroll*). I added a drawstring to the waist, its very easy because of the way the elastic is sewn on, all I had to do was after I had serged the elastic to the waistband was sew a couple of buttonholes at the front then turn and topstitch, it creates a tunnel for the drawstring with no real extra effort.

She did a 4km run in these just after I finished them and they got the thumbs up, she did say the waistband felt too loose on the run so I think the next version I would make a straight size S without grading out at the waist.

Material wise, hers are made out of digital print ponte fabric from Spotlight with the side panel out of the matt black jersey, same fabrics as mine but switched around.

Fehr Trade 103: Duathlon shorts

 

It is incredibly frustrating looking for RTW plus size exercise gear. Its hard to find for starters, usually the tops are baggy and shapeless, the leggings all fit oddly and sit way too high up on my waist that's if I do actually find any that do fit....Enter the Duathlon shorts. This is my first fehr trade pattern and I've got to say I'm impressed. As drafted the waist is higher at the back than the front so for once I didn't need to add to it. Plus I am in love with the contrast side and built in pocket!
I printed this out and somehow I ended up printing it out too big plus I used a beautifully stretchy fabric which meant I had to take the sides in by a total of 8" per leg and shorten the legs by 4"!

Since I hadn't sewn Fehr Trade patterns before, I basted them first so it was pretty easy to unpick the side panel and take in the black fabric. I scooped out the crotch by about 1/2" front and back. Because it didn't print properly (which was my fault, I did print the test square first so not really sure what I did!), I don't really know what I ended up making size wise. I think its about a sz L with a size XL waistband height and I cut them off at knee length.

I go the fabric from the remnant table at GJ's discount fabrics, its a cotton lycra but is nice and thick with a matte finish. I really regret not getting more because it is just great, feels just like Supplex. the contrast is a digital print ponte from the clearance table at Spotlight.

The best bit about these leggings are the pockets. I have an iPhone 5 and it fits in perfectly, snug enough it doesn't move at all (when the phone is pushed down to the bottom of the pocket it sits about an inch under the opening, I just have it poking out here so you can see it).

 

Anyway, great pants and the daughter has put in her order (which is always a good sign, lol!)