Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Kitschy Koo: Lady Skater dress

How do I manage to turn a very simple knit dress pattern into a fitting saga?! This is version 4, I'm pretty happy with it, still need to tweak slightly but at least its wearable.

Final version adjustments:
  • Size 4 through the shoulders, graded out to size 8 at the underarm/waist/hips.
  • 1" FBA eased into the side seam.
  • Changed the shape of the armhole.
  • Narrow shoulder adjustment 0.5"
  • Dropped armholes 1"
  • Lengthened the skirt by 2"
  • Petited the bodice by 2"

Muslin 1:  was a straight sz8, it was too big through the shoulders so I cut it back to a sz 4 through the shoulders. (didn't get a pic of muslin 1).

Muslin 2.
Muslin 2: This helped but I had a lot of excess fabric at the underarms/bustline. I pinched out a dart at the armhole and rotated it out to give that J shaped armhole which helped a lot.

Muslin 3
Muslin 3: I still had some draglines, so I dropped the armholes by 1" and it seems pretty good now. I have added some sleeve cap length so the next version though, to stop the drag lines I'm getting on this one.

Final version
I am happy though, I've been needed a knit sloper for ages and I hope to use this either to check fit on new patterns or to hack it.

Fabric is from the clearance table to Spotlight, the print is massively off grain, don't look too much or it will do your head in! I cut it on grain, I don't think the skewed print is too noticeable unless you really look at the waistline seam or the hem and at least it hangs properly.

I added pockets, they are only basic patch ones. I had grand ideas of topstitched inseam ones but by the end I was a bit over it!

Merry Christmas!


  1. Well, despite your hassles (or probably because you took the time to go through them) the result looks very nice. And no doubt comfy too. I am still deciding whether to take the plunge and buy this one, but it really does seem to make up nicely.

  2. Whatever happened to you knee, I'm sorry, but I'm so glad you incorporated it into your outfit. It may be intentional or not, but it looks great! :)

  3. Your fit adjustments turned out really well. Nice job :)

  4. This dress looks really nice on you! Love the dots!

  5. Oh wow, a knit block! May I ask how you rotate out the darts-be-gone without darts, do you move the position of the neckline to compensate? Eitherway, what you've done makes a huge difference, the final dress is really gorgeous and well-fitting on!

    1. Hi poppykettle,I leave the dart in place and then ease the side seam in like this;


      Heres the same method but if you want to keep the waist measurement the same;


      I've done it a few times now and it seems to work well and isn't noticeable on the finished top/dress. Hope that helps!

  6. That fits beautifully!! Great job.