After finishing my bodice block the other day I wanted to try using it on a pattern and seeing as this was a shoulder princess seam jacket pattern I figured it was a good one to try.
I find using the pants block quite easy, just line up the crotch line and grainlines and then trace, but there is so much more to using the bodice block. The back was quite easy to do but the front gave me fits! Because my side front was so different to the pattern piece I wasn't quite sure where to line up and trace from but I ended up lining the underarm seam and making sure the grainlines were parallel. Then I walked the seams to check and used a nice wide fitting allowance on the side seams.
It worked quite well, this is the fit with no muslin and no paper pin fitting just cutting straight into fabric and sewing (I do check fit as I sew though). I suppose after using it a few times it will become a lot easier and intuitive and eventually it will be fantastic to actually draft my own patterns (and if nothing else its been great for a dressform cover!)
So about the jacket; Size was a 16 with a FBA.
The pattern comes with a one piece sleeve with a pleated sleeve cap but I used a 2 piece sleeve from McCalls 5936.
I used a polar fleece fabric and left it unlined. The insides are serged with bias binding at the hem and neckline.
I haven't sewn with polar fleece much and it stretches out a lot more than I thought. I ended up taking it in by an inch on each side before these pics and I reckon I could take it in more again, but at least its out of my stash and its a nicer version of a basic hoodie!
Polar Fleece!!! Bet you aren't wearing it now...way too warm - this will be a great one to pull out in a few months. Love the surprise of the hot pink on the inside...great sewing (as usual!!!)...
ReplyDeleteI know, I always do stupid stuff like sew winter clothes in Summer!
DeleteI'm so glad to see someone make up this pattern in a knit, and without the double peplum. I've got a ponte knit earmarked for this jacket, and I hope mine turns out as well as yours!
ReplyDeleteI think a ponte would be great, a lot nicer than the fleece. I think I'll make my next version out of ponte too!
DeleteWowser! Suzy, your rad use of pants and bodice blocks are totes inspiring especially when you come out with something this awesome first time round!I am feeling for you wearing it to take photos though- please tell me that wasn't one of the 40 degree days!
ReplyDeleteLol, I took the pics in the morning on a 30 degree day and got the jacket off as quick as possible! Its been so hot I'm not going to make a jacket for a while now, even trying them on while sewing is horrible!
DeleteSuzy - I love the look of this jacket. You have really got fitting down pat. Great job.
ReplyDeleteThanks Beajay!
DeleteOh wow, what a great looking jacket! Much classier looking than a hoodie. :)
ReplyDeleteI think it will be even nicer in a nice ponte (next time!)
DeleteSuzy, your output alone is inspiring, seriously, I'm beginning to think you've cloned yourself and there are two of you! Joking aside, this is a great jacket, love that you used your block as a guide. Did you take any pictures of the process? The fit is great. I was impressed you did your block alone also. Seems challenging to take those back measurements!
ReplyDeleteThankyou! I didn't take pics because I am still very much fumbling my way through using the block!
DeleteLooks like your bodice block is a winner - great fit on your new jacket, and lovely on you!
ReplyDeleteThat is a fantastic jacket! I love it and I've been enjoying looking through your sewing projects. So many awesome projects!
ReplyDeleteThanks Leslie!
DeleteYour jacket is Awesome! And way classier than a typical fleece jacket. I'm going to be copying you! Also love the idea of a ponte version, I've had some stashed for ages but never new what to do with it!!
ReplyDeleteI'm really intrigued with how you're using your bodice block to make adjustments to commercial patterns. Would you consider taking a photo of how you check the fit on paper? It would be great!