Kitschy Koo: Lady Skater dress

How do I manage to turn a very simple knit dress pattern into a fitting saga?! This is version 4, I'm pretty happy with it, still need to tweak slightly but at least its wearable.

Final version adjustments:

• Size 4 through the shoulders, graded out to size 8 at the underarm/waist/hips.
• 1" FBA eased into the side seam.
• Changed the shape of the armhole.
• Narrow shoulder adjustment 0.5"
• Dropped armholes 1"
• Lengthened the skirt by 2"
• Petited the bodice by 2"

Muslin 1:  was a straight sz8, it was too big through the shoulders so I cut it back to a sz 4 through the shoulders. (didn't get a pic of muslin 1).

Muslin 2.

Muslin 2: This helped but I had a lot of excess fabric at the underarms/bustline. I pinched out a dart at the armhole and rotated it out to give that J shaped armhole which helped a lot.

Muslin 3

Muslin 3: I still had some draglines, so I dropped the armholes by 1" and it seems pretty good now. I have added some sleeve cap length so the next version though, to stop the drag lines I'm getting on this one.

Final version

I am happy though, I've been needed a knit sloper for ages and I hope to use this either to check fit on new patterns or to hack it.

Fabric is from the clearance table to Spotlight, the print is massively off grain, don't look too much or it will do your head in! I cut it on grain, I don't think the skewed print is too noticeable unless you really look at the waistline seam or the hem and at least it hangs properly.

I added pockets, they are only basic patch ones. I had grand ideas of topstitched inseam ones but by the end I was a bit over it!

Merry Christmas!

Xmas Sewing: wristlet bags

I haven't done much Christmas sewing this year but I did make these 2 bags on the weekend to add to gifts for friends.

The pattern is from dog under my desk and its the essential wristlet. I made her circle pouches last Christmas.

The ninja fabric is Robert Kaufmann and was left over from the Mini ninja quilt.

 

This fabric was a fat quarter I picked up at a garage sale a couple of years ago and the lining is a Joel Dewberry fabric left over from this quilt

 

The little swivel clips I picked up from either ebay or etsy in a bulk lot last year, it's nice to finally use them.

 

I couldn't find the recommended interfacing locally so used a fusible fleece on the outer and a Pellon fusible on the lining.

 

Next time I make these I will cut a little out of the lining at the base as it doesn't fit as smooth as I'd like inside but otherwise I'm really happy with them.

Duffle bag

I'm not much of a bag sewer - I tend towards leather handbags and I use a small suitcase normally for holidays. But a duffle bag is always good, easy to fold down into a suitcase for extra fabric shopping storage, lol!
This is my second version, I made myself a boring plain grey one and the daughter picked out this fabric from my stash. I have to admit I'm a bit jealous at how good it looks!

Pattern details:

I used a free pattern from here.

I changed a couple of things design wise - I joined the separate base and side pattern pieces and cut the outer as a single piece. Added a big inside zippered pocket and also added pockets to the ends inside as well. I don't have much craft/bag interfacing so used a woven fusible interfacing I had at home to fuse both the lining and the outer.

Fabric is a digital scuba knit from Spotlight and the lining is a thicker old nylon lining fabric (sort of feels like a ripstop nylon).

I bought the webbing from spotlight as well as the plastic clips. The pattern asks for swivel hooks but I couldn't find them locally so used clips on the straps instead.

Amber wanted a shoulder protector that slips over the strap. I used some scrap wadding and quilted it then bias bound the edges. I copied the shape from an existing bag we have,.

I'm pretty impressed with this pattern, everything turned out pretty good. A couple notes if you don't normally sew bags though;

• make sure you interface it if you aren't using a heavy canvas/duck cotton.
• Add in the outer end pockets even if you don't think you'll use them, they help support and shape the ends.

 

Its a surprisingly huge bag, I took mine recently on an overnight trip to Adelaide and it fitted heaps in, I'm holding it here to give a perspective on how big it is.

Closet Case Files: Ginger Jeans - purple denim

Another pair of jeans, I've been wearing my first pair heaps lately.

 

Same as last time;

• Added 1" to the inner leg seam on the front pattern piece.
• Adjusted the side seams - I have hyperextended calves and they were dragging the side seam backwards so I added to the back and took from the front to straighten it up.
• Changed the front pockets to a pocket stay.
• Shaped the side seams
• I did a couple of construction changes - I followed my fav zipper tutorial and serged the waistband facing instead of turning under (just helps to reduce bulk with a heavier weight denim).
• Shaped the waistband to be more curved to stop the gape at the back.
• Also I added elastic to the waistband to help stabilise/stop stretching out.
• Took in the side seams as my purple denim was very stretchy
• Plus I took length out of the legs at the knees from where I had originally added it and I also took some height out of the back rise, again from where I had added it.

I used a purple denim (its either from Rathdowne or GJ's discount fabrics). Its a lot thinner than my first pair and has some good stretch in it.

 

Topstitching is Gutermann and a matching plain poly thread for the bartacks. I'm definitely more of a fan of the upholstery thread for jeans topstitching, my machine doesn't really like how thick the topstitching thread is and I found it harder to keep an even line with it.

I added a pocket stay - its a quilting cotton that I had in my stash

Not much else to say except I've already cut out my third pair ready to be sewn!

 

Pattern testing - Closet Case Files: Ginger Jeans

I was lucky enough to pattern test these, I know there was a bit of controversy over pattern testing and bloggers always saying nice things about the new pattern but I can honestly say I love these jeans!

I've always stuck to wide leg jeans, they were the only type that would ever fit over my thighs and I had a couple of horrible change room experiences that cemented the no-skinny jean rule firmly in my mind! This is why I love to pattern test though - it pushes me way out of my comfort zone and into clothes I might not normally sew or wear. This is my first ever pair of stovepipe/skinny leg jeans and I am a convert!

So the pattern: These are View A with the stovepipe leg. I made a size 18 (the test pattern was pretty generous - by my measurements I should be a sz20. This has been corrected on the finished pattern though). I muslined them up in cheap denim first and made a few adjustments;

• Added 1" to the inner leg seam on the front pattern piece.
• Added 1" length at the knee
• Added 1" to the centre back height (this is a bit much though and I'll be halving it next time)
• Adjusted the side seams - I have hyperextended calves and they were dragging the side seam backwards so I added to the back and took from the front to straighten it up.
• Changed the front pockets to a pocket stay.
• Shaped the side seams - my muslin was in a thin denim and the legs draped fine, this denim is a lot thicker and just looked bunchy so I shaped it to fit my lower thighs and knee area.
• I did a couple of construction changes - I followed my fav zipper tutorial and serged the waistband facing instead of turning under (just helps to reduce bulk with a heavier weight denim).
• Shaped the waistband to be more curved to stop the gape at the back.
• Also I added elastic to the waistband to help stabilise/stop stretching out.

I'm really impressed with the pattern - I've sewn a few different jeans patterns now and these are the least adjusted pair so far. They are generous through the thigh and butt area and are a higher rise at the back to the front which I always look for.

The instructions are written towards someone who hasn't sewn jeans before plus there is an upcoming sewalong to follow as well. I had trouble with the original zipper instructions but I've just read the final pattern instructions and I can recommend them now, they are very similar to how I do my zipper install and nice and simple to follow.

I totally ran out of ideas to top stitch the back pockets so just left them plain, I did stitch one of my labels to the corner for something different.

All the top stitching is with upholstery thread and the bar tacks in the same colour normal thread.

Now all I can think about is more pairs of jeans! I have a nice thin purple denim that would be great in this pattern and could be rolled up to be capri length in summer and my daughter has a pair of shorts that are serged in hot pink thread and then cuffed so you can see the serging which I want to copy as well!

McCalls 6953: Rayon maxi dress

 

I think this summer's uniform is going to be the maxi skirt for me! I've been wearing my Gabriola skirt heaps lately so it just seemed natural to make a maxi dress as well.

This pattern has a few variations, I made Amber the hi-lo hem version and this is View D with the maxi skirt.

So the adjustments;

• sz20 with d cup
• 1" fba
• 1" wedge from back neck alongside of the zipper
• 2" petite bodice
• 1" wedge out of bustline length
• shirring panel on side
• lowered neckline
• added waistband
• added pockets from Simplicity 2588

I'm not overly happy with the bodice, it took 1 tissue fitting and 2 muslins and I'm still not completely happy.

Every time I try one of these cup size patterns I end up adjusting the fit more than if I'd started with a basic B cup bodice. This time I started with a d-cup bodice and had to do a 1" fba on the first muslin then had to take a big wedge out of length on the second - its like I need the width but not the length I'm finding - I really should add to the side seams which would let me do a smaller fba and also allow for an easier sleeve adjustment each time.

I had to take a wedge out the back neckline along the zipper as it was gaping, same as I had to on Amber's dress. This is not a common adjustment for me so I tend to think its more of a fault on the pattern.

Fabric is a rayon from the clearance table at spotlight - its a nice weighty rayon. I used a cotton poplin for the lining and a cotton sateen for the waistband. The photo below is more true to the colour.

The dress isn't designed with the waistband but I found it was just too much pattern without it, this fabric really needed a break.

I think the next maxi dress I make will be a frankenpattern of this skirt with the bodice of Vogue 8648, I just need to find some more decent rayon!