Simplicity 4885 Jacket

Pattern Description: Misses/Miss petite top, pants, skirt, jacket and scarf.

Pattern Sizing:I made the 20 with adjustments

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, pretty close



Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, I didn't follow them though because I used Jackets for real People.



What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the classic blazer look, its a nice base pattern to change up depending on the look you want.

Fabric Used: Cotton sateen for the main fabric and I used a rayon lining.



Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: FBA for about 2" and widened the back for 1". I lined the jacket and did double welt pockets and bound buttonholes. I added shoulder pads and sleeve heads. Piping around the lining. I changed the one piece sleeves to a two piece sleeve from McCalls 5936.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? yes I will be sewing this again (in a gaberdine though, not another sateen).


Conclusion: I found a similar jacket in a local store (Sussans) and decided to copy it. I'm pretty happy with it, I wish I'd made it a bit longer but it's a nice basic jacket for the office. It was my first time doing a lot of the tailoring techniques, geez they take up some time!!


So, where do I start - this jacket felt like it took me ages (prob about 20hours at least). I actually cut out the original sleeves, set them in wasn't really happy with them, slept on it and then took them out and put in a two piece sleeve that looks a lot better and set in a lot easier.

I had my first go at welt pockets, which are still a bit bunchy on the ends (even though I did a practise one) - I think it was from going slightly over the length guidelines?? I had another go at bound buttonholes, this time following Jackets for Real People (last time it was out of Kenneth Kings book Cool couture, which is the best guide for piping and hidden pockets). I'm ok with them, they look better than my other attempt, but they don't really bind the edges and in a heavier fabric would be very thick. Sateens such an unforgiving fabric that next time I want to use a black gaberdine I have in my stash and make the jacket a bit longer.

I stuffed up on the facing holes for the buttonholes, they are a bit big but not too noticable I think. It was my first time using shoulderpads, I'm still surprised that they subtly add to the line of the jacket, I've never used them before - too worried it would look like a powersuit from the 80's!!

Burda 7494 - Jacket

Pattern Description: Fitted, cropped jacket with puffy sleeves



Pattern Sizing:I did a size 16 with adjustments



Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, pretty close

Were the instructions easy to follow? Well they were Burda instructions so they weren't the best. They were fairly abbreviated and involved a fair bit of hand sewing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the cropped length and no collar



Fabric Used:Cotton sateen. Lining and button was from the Alannah Hill factory outlet in Melbourne (they have some lovely quality, cheap remnants there)





Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: FBA for about 2", widened the back by 1" and used 1" seams on the sides. I changed the sleeves to be longer and less puffy and used darts instead of pleats. The instructions have you put in a buttonhole along the seam line of the peplum but i found it a bit low so did a normal buttonhole instead.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?Not sure if I would sew it again for myself, but I would sew it for someone else.

Conclusion: Not sure on this jacket, I paper fitted, then did a muslin but am still not completely happy about the fit, thought to be fair to Burda its more from me changing things than from the way the pattern is drafted. I do like the cropped length, still unsure on the no collar look, but it is something different.



I finally moved back in to my sewing room (the back shed!) as the weather has warmed up enough I'm not freezing and this is the first thing I've sewed back in there. I'm still umming and ahhing over this jacket, I might have to hang it in the cupboard and ignore it for a while before I can start to enjoy it. I made it mainly to go over dresses in summer and I think it will be fairly cute but geez it was a PITB to sew, mainly from my adjustments and doing silly things like not transferring over the adjustments to the lining so I did cut, interface and sew the front facing and then realised it was about 4 inches too short for the jacket!!!! Bugger! And somehow I managed to sew the lining tighter than the jacket so ended up unpicking a couple of seams for a bit of extra length. But its done now and on to planning the next project.

Auction Finds

A couple of weekends ago I left a bid on this and managed to win it! Its a Singer 15K, made in 1951. The machine is in gorgeous condition, I've started to refinish the woodwork, I've done the case but not the base the machine sits in yet.


It even has the original receipt, it's abit oil stained but you can make out the date and how much she paid for it!


Came with a couple of boxes of different feet and a buttonhole attachment




Its a knee control but I bought another singer that has a foot pedal so I might change the motor and cords over but I want to have a play with the knee pedal first (I gotta stop going to these auctions, I'm running out of space!)

Fabric Finds

I found a box of fabric at the market this weekend and when I asked how much she said I could have it for free! I think I asked her about 5 times if she was sure :D

Its got some old quilting cotton that will be going to the local op shop, but it has a couple of nice pieces of stretch denim. I've been wanting to have a go at flat felled seams so I might use the darker denim to make my son a pair of shorts with felled seams

A pretty piece of cotton



A decent sized piece of what is probably a polyester blend? I've been eyeing off a dress that Dita Von Teese wore and I think this will make a nice copy (the fabric is darker in real life - closer to a deep royal blue like what Dita is wearing)



(source)

A couple of pieces of a cotton herringbone pattern

All in all what a great score!

Sewaholic 1102 : Lonsdale Dress

Description: Halter-style dress has a fitted, self-lined bodice and flared skirt with front pockets. Knotted neckline features adjustable shoulder straps that tie in a bow at the back. View A is knee length and View B is full length.

I made View A

Fabric: Interlock knit

Pattern Sizing: I made a size 6

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes they were.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the look of the halterneck, but no knot to push into the back of your neck. Also it has pockets!




Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I originally graded out from a 6 at the bust to a 12 at the waist and back to a 6 at the hips. But as the knit has a lot of stretch I ended up taking in a good 4-5 inches through the bodice. I ended up shortenign the skirt by a good 4 inches as well.



I added stay tape from the underarms to the centre of the bodice as I didn't want the knit to stretch out over time.

I lined the bodice in a basic white knit as I was worried if I lined in the stripe fabric it would show through. I lined up to the straps and then used the stripes. I cut the skirts on the bias to make the most of the chevron effect.
Because I used a knit I didn't put in a zipper.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! I originally bought this pattern for me, but after 3 muslins I still couldn't get the bodice to fit right so I thought I'd make it for my daugther instead. I used a cheap ($2 a metre) fabric from the clearance table at spotlight but am really happy with how it turned out. I love how the straps tie at the back of the bodice

McCalls 5936

Description: Semi-fitted princess seamed jackets A, B have separate lapels, flared peplums and sleeve variations.

Fabric: Ponte double knit. The fabric was stripped but I turned it to the wrong side to get a mottled grey look. I used a stretch satin for the lining.



Pattern Sizing: I cut the 18 with adjustments

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, I didn't originally read them and bagged the lining out, but I think it must have been the weight of the knit stretched down the length of the back so I got some buckling. I ended up unpicking it and adding on extra to the lining them followed the instructions to sew it back up again.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the peplum, its just a bit of a surprise to an otherwise basic jacket. I like the short length too.



Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: FBA and extra width to the back, and widened and lengthened the sleeves.


Action shot (still getting used to the timer on my camera!)



Eyes shut(Definitely not used to the timer, lol)



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I actually sewed it in a purple stretch corduroy but the fabric is a bit too thick and I found the peplum doesn't drape - it tends to stick straight out! I will sew it again if I can find another nice knit or a drapey wool. This was my first jacket made out of a knit and I was worried it would look too much like a hoody/sweatshirt but it turned out nice and its extremely comfortable. It is also the first jacket I've used satin for the lining and have found it doesn't breath like a nice rayon, I don't think I'd use it again unless I run across it at a market/op shop.

Simplicity 2588

Pattern Description: Dress with yoke and pleated skirt

Pattern Sizing: I cut the 18 with adjustments

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes!


Were the instructions easy to follow? I only really checked them for the pocket attachment as I lined the bodice instead of just doing facings like the instructions say




I have some fabric pooling at my lower back in this photo but thats from from my hands on my hips, if I stand up normally its fine.



What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The pockets were sewn in differently to any other inseam pockets I've done before. They are sewn into the waist seam as well so they don't droop or flop about like some in seam pockets. I also really liked the tabs and buttons around the waist.



Fabric Used:
Polkadot cotton sateen

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made a FBA of about 2 inches and widened the back also. I added length to the skirt to make it fall to knee length and I used satin bias binding to finish the hem off. I also fully lined the bodice in a black stretch cotton.






Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! I'm planning on making the skirt by itself soon. I found the higher neckline quite flattering for a fuller bust which was surprising as I usually steer away from them.

Conclusion:

I like this dress - it's a easy pretty dress that I can get away with wearing to work as well as out for tea. All the seams are overlocked. I could have spent some more time in finishing the bodice - I should have turned and slip stitched the lining to the zipper and for the shoulder seams, but I'm still happy with how it turned out.


Gratuitious cat shot!

It's a Hoot by Moda quilt

This is my first quilt, its a basic strip quilt using It's a Hoot jelly roll. It was machine quilted and bound by more it's a hoot fabric. The corners are a bit dodgy, but after I finished yesterday, decided I still wasn't happy with it and unpicked it all then resewed the binding today its staying that way!


Mittens our cat checking out the quilt!


Binding (Dots in Turquoise from It's a Hoot range)


The back (Monster Stripe in Turquoise from It's a Hoot range)